"You Are Murderers!" — How the Col du Tourmalet Gave Birth to the "King of the Mountains" Title at the Tour de France

In 1910, the Tour de France sent its route into the Pyrenees for the first time. The riders of that era rode heavy single-speed bikes on roads of gravel and dirt, with no pavement at all. When the riders were forced to dismount and push their bikes up the steep mountain roads, gasping for air as they climbed this unfamiliar pass, one of them, Octave Lapize, was said to have shouted a curse at the race organizers that would echo for a century: “You are murderers!” (Historical accounts differ slightly on the exact wording and context of this quote, but the story is widely cited and has become a symbolic starting point for the Tour’s foray into the high mountains).

That pass was the Col du Tourmalet—the highest paved mountain pass in the Pyrenees and one of the most frequently visited high mountain passes in Tour de France history. More than a hundred years later, smooth asphalt now covers the road, and it has become a pilgrimage landmark for countless cyclists, but that “murderous” steepness and length have not changed much in essence.

The Birthplace of the “King of the Mountains” in the Pyrenees

That unprecedented mountain stage in 1910 is regarded as the watershed moment when the Tour de France officially entered the high mountains. Before this, the Tour route had mostly avoided true alpine terrain; after that year, the Pyrenees and the Alps gradually became the most dramatic stages of each year’s race, and “climbers” slowly evolved from mere physical beasts into a type of rider held in special reverence. Years later, the Tour de France officially established the special classification award for the “King of the Mountains,” and the Tourmalet naturally became one of the spiritual birthplaces of this award (the exact year the mountains classification was officially established varies slightly across records; this is only background information and no specific year is cited).

Today, near the summit of the pass stands a well-known landmark: a massive statue of a cyclist, commonly called the “Giant of the Tourmalet” (Géant du Tourmalet), commemorating the riders who pioneered the mountain stages in that era. This statue has also become a favorite photo spot for cyclists who conquer the summit—almost every cyclist who has visited the Tourmalet carries a photo of themselves standing breathless beside the statue.

What makes the Tourmalet particularly favored by Tour de France route designers, besides its inherent difficulty, is that it connects to several other famous passes in the Pyrenees (such as the Aspin and the Peyresourde), allowing route designers to string together multiple mountain passes into a single day’s “successive mountain stage,” testing riders who must still tackle the Tourmalet after multiple climbs. This role as the “finale” has made the Tourmalet the decisive battleground for the overall classification in many classic stages.

The Pyrenees and the Alps are often compared in the Tour de France, and a saying circulates among fans: the Alpine passes are generally higher and longer, carrying a sense of “grandeur”; the Pyrenean passes are relatively more primitive with more violent gradient changes, carrying a sense of “wildness.” The Tourmalet is a representative of the latter—it lacks the neatly numbered hairpin bends of Alpe d’Huez or the isolated, landmark-like visual impact of Mont Ventoux. Instead, it offers a continuous, unrelenting climbing rhythm that seems to offer no respite—a common assessment from cyclists who have compared both mountain ranges.

It is worth noting that the Col du Tourmalet itself is also a witness to a significant engineering achievement in cycling history. In an era without modern construction machinery, carving a passable road through the steep terrain of the Pyrenees was an immense engineering challenge in itself. The road evolved from an initial mule track into a roadway, and later into the paved surface we see today, witnessing the overall evolution of road construction in the Alps and the Pyrenees. This makes the site not only a pilgrimage for cycling enthusiasts but also a story worth knowing in the history of road engineering.

Route Basic Information

The Col du Tourmalet has two main ascent routes, starting from Luz-Saint-Sauveur on the eastern side and La Mongie (via Sainte-Marie-de-Campan) on the western side. The following figures are compiled from multiple public climbing databases. Different sources use different starting points and measurement methods, so figures may vary; treat them as “approximate values,” and defer to official road signs and on-site markers.

Each side has its own character: the eastern route from Luz-Saint-Sauveur has a relatively even gradient distribution with varied scenery along the way; the western route from La Mongie, because it passes through a ski resort, concentrates its steepest gradients in the final kilometers. Combined with the resort’s man-made facilities, the visual experience differs from the purely natural landscape sections.

Section by Section Breakdown: Each Side Has Its Own Way of Torturing You

Eastern Route (starting from Luz-Saint-Sauveur)

The opening section climbs gently along the Gave de Pau valley with a relatively mild gradient, serving as a warm-up period for the body. After passing the small town of Barèges, the gradient noticeably increases, entering a middle section where the views gradually open up to reveal the Pyrenean peaks. The final few kilometers are the hardest part of the entire route, with the gradient holding steady at near-double-digit levels. Combined with the effects of thin air at high altitude, the perceived fatigue feels heavier than the numbers suggest.

Western Route (starting from Sainte-Marie-de-Campan via La Mongie)

The gradient distribution on this side is relatively concentrated. After the initial rural sections around Sainte-Marie-de-Campan, the gradient steadily increases. As you enter the area around the La Mongie ski resort, cable car facilities and resort buildings appear alongside the road, contrasting with the purely natural landscape of the eastern side. After passing La Mongie, the final few kilometers to the pass are the steepest and most mentally demanding part of the entire western route. Many cyclists describe this section as “behind every corner, the same gradient continues, with no chance to catch your breath.”

Convergence and Summit

No matter which side you start from, you will eventually be greeted by expansive high-mountain scenery near the pass. On clear days, you can even see higher peaks in the distance. Upon reaching the pass, the Giant statue stands clearly before you, reminding you that this is indeed the stage where countless Tour de France legends have battled.

It’s worth noting that the Col du Tourmalet itself is essentially just a passage. Many cyclists choose to extend their ride—after ascending from the eastern side, they descend to La Mongie or Sainte-Marie-de-Campan on the western side, completing a true “mountain crossing” rather than an out-and-back. This through-route style of riding allows you to experience two distinctly different climbing characters and is a popular arrangement among cyclists in the Pyrenees. However, it requires more comprehensive shuttle or return planning, so be sure to think through your transportation connections before setting out.

Additionally, along the Tourmalet, you’ll pass several historically significant route markers, such as small plaques commemorating records set on this section during past Tour de France editions. While they are not as dense or systematic as the hairpin bend signs on Alpe d’Huez, they remain noteworthy details for cyclists familiar with Tour history. This adds a layer of “reviewing a century of Tour history while riding” to the climbing experience, beyond just the physical challenge.

Power and Pacing Estimates: Let Physics Do the Math

Using a common simplified climbing physics model from the industry, we estimate the time required for riders of different abilities on both side routes:

P = (Fg + Fr + Fa) × v / Drivetrain Efficiency

Fg = m × g × sin(arctan(Grade))       Gravitational Component
Fr = m × g × cos(arctan(Grade)) × Crr   Rolling Resistance
Fa = 0.5 × ρ × CdA × v²               Aerodynamic Drag

Assumed parameters used in the calculations:

• Rider weight 70 kg + bike and gear 9 kg, totaling approximately 79 kg
• Gravitational acceleration g = 9.81 m/s²
• Rolling resistance coefficient Crr ≈ 0.005
• Drag area CdA ≈ 0.32 m² (climbing position)
• Air density adjusted downward based on the pass’s average elevation (approximately 1,400 m)
• Drivetrain efficiency approximately 0.975

East Side Route (Luz-Saint-Sauveur, 19.0 km):

West Side Route (La Mongie, 17.2 km):

Both tables are based on physical model estimates and do not account for wind direction, road conditions, or rider physique differences; actual times will certainly vary. The times required for both side routes are similar. The west side is slightly shorter, so the time required at the same power-to-weight ratio is a bit less, but the final few kilometers on the west side have a higher concentration of steep gradients, so the actual perceived fatigue may not be easier than the east side. As for the record times of professional riders on this climb during the Tour de France, records from different eras and timing methods are themselves disputed, so this article does not cite any specific times.

A Taiwanese Rider’s Perspective: How It Compares to Wuling, and Where It Differs

The Col du Tourmalet sits at approximately 2,115 meters above sea level, more than a thousand meters lower than Wuling (approximately 3,275 m). This means the risk of altitude sickness is relatively lower, but both side routes compress over 1,300 meters of climbing into less than 20 kilometers, making the average gradient noticeably steeper and more concentrated than the overall profile of the Wuling climb.

Similarities: Both require sustained, continuous uphill endurance output, both involve significant temperature shifts from warm valley floors to cool mountain passes, and both test a rider’s ability to maintain pacing under accumulating fatigue in the latter stages.

Differences:

1. Higher gradient concentration. The Wuling climb is longer overall with more dispersed gradient changes; the Tourmalet’s two side routes concentrate a large amount of climbing into a shorter distance, leaving less room for pacing error.
2. Two side routes offer flexibility. Wuling essentially has only one main ascent route, whereas the Tourmalet allows you to choose the scenic east side or the steeper west side based on your condition that day or personal preference—or even tackle both sides in a single day as a grand challenge.
3. Different density of cultural landmarks. The Giant statue at the Tourmalet summit and the Tour de France historical markers give the climb clear cultural waypoints; Wuling’s landmarks lean more toward natural scenery and milestone-style road signs.

A practical conversion: If you can ride up Wuling in reasonable condition, you already possess the base endurance in total elevation gain and sustained output to complete either side of the Tourmalet. What you need to adapt to is the pacing strategy for the more concentrated gradients.

There is another detail Taiwanese riders often overlook: along the Wuling route, due to the extreme elevation difference, the climate shifts dramatically from subtropical at the base to alpine near the summit, with very dramatic changes in vegetation and temperature. Although the Tourmalet is lower in elevation, the Pyrenees region sits at a higher latitude, so its climate patterns and vegetation distribution do not follow the same logic as Taiwan’s vertical climate zones. In short, the rule of thumb you are used to on Wuling—“for every X meters climbed, it gets about Y degrees colder”—cannot be directly applied to the Tourmalet. Before setting out, always rely on real-time local weather information rather than estimating perceived temperature purely from elevation numbers.

Additionally, some sections of the Tourmalet overlap with pastoral grazing rights, and in summer you may occasionally see grazing cattle or sheep directly on the road—something rarely encountered on Taiwan’s high mountain roads (along Wuling, you are more likely to see wildlife such as Formosan macaques or mountain goats). If you encounter livestock blocking the road while riding, slow down, patiently go around them, and do not honk or accelerate to startle them. This is the customary courtesy among road users in the Pyrenees.

If you want to simulate the Tourmalet’s rhythm using Taiwan’s climbs: Fengguizui is good for practicing pacing transitions when the gradient noticeably steepens from the middle section onward; Beiyi Highway is good for practicing steady output over 1.5 to 2.5 hours; Yangjin P-Character Mountain Road with its continuous switchbacks helps you get familiar with rhythm control on sustained gradients.

Practical Tips for Riding There

Seasonal Considerations: The best riding season in the Pyrenees generally falls between late spring and early autumn. The pass itself is closed in winter, and opening and closing dates vary each year depending on snow conditions. Be sure to check real-time local road condition announcements before departing—do not rely on outdated information.

Base Accommodations: Luz-Saint-Sauveur and Bareges are common bases on the east side, with hot springs and relatively complete tourist facilities in town. La Mongie, thanks to its ski resort, maintains a certain level of tourist hospitality capacity even in summer, making it suitable as a base for a west-side challenge itinerary.

Bike Rental and Equipment: There is a reasonable scale of road bike rental and repair services in the area, especially during the peak tourist season. Please confirm specific prices, business hours, and service details directly with the shops or local tourist information offices.

Nutrition Strategy: On the east side, Bareges; on the west side, Sainte-Marie-de-Campan and the La Mongie resort all have refueling points available, but options near the summit are relatively limited. Based on an estimated climb time of 1 to 2.5 hours on this road, it is recommended to consume approximately 500 to 800 ml of fluid per hour, along with moderate carbohydrate intake. During the peak summer season, the La Mongie resort offers more dining options for a mid-ride break; if you are planning a double-sided traverse, consider making this your primary mid-way refueling stop.

Altitude Acclimatization: For riders coming from flatlands or low elevations, even though the Tourmalet’s elevation is not extreme, if your trip includes tackling multiple Pyrenean passes in succession, it is still advisable to allow one or two days of light acclimatization upon arrival rather than attempting a high-intensity climbing itinerary the day after landing. This gives your body time to adjust to jet lag and environmental changes, reduces the risk of accumulated fatigue, and also gives you a chance to familiarize yourself with local road conditions and traffic patterns.

Best Departure Time: Early morning, because temperatures are cooler, traffic is lighter, and you can avoid the afternoon thunderstorms that may develop in the mountains.

Safety Reminder (Please Read Carefully)

High-Altitude Weather Changes: Weather in the Pyrenees can shift from clear to overcast or even rainy in a short period. While the pass elevation is not extremely high, temperature swings and wind can create significant differences in how the conditions feel. It is recommended to carry a packable windbreaker.

Descent Risks: Both sides of the route feature continuous switchbacks on the descents and share the road with motor vehicles. Traffic may be denser on the western side, especially through the resort area. On long descents, use intermittent hard braking to avoid overheating the brake system.

Traffic Rule Differences: Mountain roads in France are mostly two-way with limited sightlines on some sections. Before overtaking, always check that it is safe behind you. Riding steadily on the right is both basic courtesy and a matter of self-protection.

Racing Is Not Recommended on Open Roads: This road attracts a large number of amateur cyclists each year to challenge their personal records, but there are other road users, grazing livestock, and unpredictable road conditions. Chasing a time is not worth risking your safety.

Special Population Reminder: If you have a history of cardiovascular disease, asthma, or other chronic conditions, consult a physician for evaluation before engaging in prolonged high-intensity climbing. If you experience chest tightness, abnormal shortness of breath, dizziness, or confusion during the climb, stop immediately and seek help. The content of this article cannot replace professional medical evaluation.

Common Mistakes Checklist

1. Underestimating the concentration of gradient on both sides — More than 1,300 meters of climbing compressed into under 20 kilometers leaves less room for pacing error than you might think.
2. Setting out with information on only one route — The eastern and western sides are completely different in character. Understanding the gradient distribution and feed point locations in advance helps you choose the route that suits your physical condition and the weather on the day, rather than discovering mid-ride that you went the wrong way.
3. Ignoring the mixed traffic through the La Mongie resort area — There is still a certain amount of tourist activity and traffic here in summer, and vehicles accessing the cable car facilities can cause brief congestion.
4. Carrying only one bottle — Supply options near the pass are limited.
5. Starting at noon — This is the time of highest temperatures and the greatest risk of afternoon thunderstorms.
6. Treating the pass as the only goal — Don’t forget that the descent also demands physical effort and concentration.
7. Relying entirely on online gradient data to set expectations — Different platforms record different figures for length and elevation gain.

Action Checklist: From Today to Standing Before the Giant Statue

Physical Preparation (8 to 12 Weeks Before Departure)

• Schedule one to two continuous climbing sessions of 60 to 100 minutes per week
• Every two to three weeks, plan one long ride with more than 1,000 meters of total elevation gain
• Given the concentrated gradient sections, add moderate-to-high intensity sustained effort interval training
• All training recommendations should be progressive. Individual differences are significant. If you experience persistent pain or unusual fatigue, reduce volume and seek professional evaluation

Equipment Checklist

• Gearing: It is recommended to have a lightest gear of at least 34×30
• Brake system: Confirm sufficient brake pad thickness
• Clothing: Packable windbreaker, full-finger gloves

Itinerary Planning

• Confirm the pass opening dates for the year and local road condition announcements
• If time allows, consider riding both the eastern and western sides once to experience the different rhythms
• Build in flexible time to accommodate mountain weather changes

Day-of Checklist

• Start early in the morning and consume enough carbohydrates before departure
• Maintain a steady effort on the opening section and save strength for the final steep pitches
• Drink every 20 minutes and take in carbohydrates as needed
• Upon reaching the pass, add warm layers first, then take photos with the giant statue
• Use intermittent braking on the descent and watch for corners with limited sightlines

More than a hundred years ago, the words “You are murderers” were a cry of desperation from someone backed into a corner; more than a hundred years later, the same road has become a pilgrimage site where countless cyclists willingly queue up to take on the challenge. Asphalt has replaced dirt and gravel, but the gradient and elevation have not yielded one bit. The Tourmalet has not become gentler — we have simply become better prepared. And the giant statue standing at the pass will always be there, witnessing the next generation of riders continue to write their own Pyrenees stories.

Related Reading

• Crossed 39 Times, Never in the Spotlight: The Peyresourde Pass, the Hidden Killer That Truly Decides Battles in the Pyrenees
• At 2,642 Meters, the Highest Point Most Visited by the Tour: The Double Trial of the Galibier Pass
• Tour de France King of the Mountains Analysis: Legendary Climbs of the Alps and the Pyrenees
• In-Depth Strategy Analysis of Mountain Stages in the Tour de France