Two Monuments on a Gravel Wasteland: The Col d'Izoard and the Deepest Friendship in Tour de France History

Most Alpine climbs follow a familiar narrative arc: forest, gradually opening views, then sweeping mountain vistas. The Col d’Izoard plays by a completely different script. Near the summit, the dense forest gives way without warning to a barren, almost lifeless terrain of sharp, grey-white rock pillars—as abrupt and poetic as a movie set. This landscape has a name: the Casse Déserte, which in French roughly translates to “broken wasteland.” It is the most famous and unforgettable stretch of the Col d’Izoard.

One Pass, Two Riders, a Friendship Across Eras

Located in the Queyras region of the southern French Alps, the Col d’Izoard is one of the high mountain passes that the Tour de France has visited regularly over the years. Because of its southerly position, its climate and vegetation have a distinctly different character from those of the more northerly Galibier and Tourmalet.

Within the barren terrain of the Casse Déserte stands a monument commemorating two legendary Italian riders who, though from different generations, left a deep mark on this pass: Fausto Coppi and Louison Bobet (French). The latter is often mentioned alongside this story, with Coppi’s connection to the pass being especially widely celebrated (different sources vary slightly on the exact subject and details of the monument’s establishment; this is provided as background only—please refer to the on-site inscription and official information for specifics). What makes this monument moving is not just racing results, but what it symbolises: a mutual respect between riders of different generations that transcends victory and defeat—a story of “rivals who are also kindred spirits” that adds a layer of humanity to the Col d’Izoard, making it more than just a physical challenge.

The barren terrain of the Casse Déserte is itself highly dramatic: geologically, it is a limestone formation shaped by weathering and erosion. After years of wind and rain carving into it, sharp rock pillars have formed, which from a distance do indeed give the illusion of an alien landscape. This type of terrain is extremely rare in the Alps and is the most striking visual feature that sets the Col d’Izoard apart from other famous climbs. Many cyclists say that the most memorable moment of crossing the Izoard is often not the pain of the gradient itself, but the visual impact of riding into the Casse Déserte—as if pedalling onto another planet.

This geological wonder has also attracted attention beyond cycling. The Casse Déserte area, with its unique desert landscape, has long been a point of interest for photographers and geology researchers, and some films and advertisements have been shot here, drawing on its visual tension between desolation and grandeur. For riders, this means that even outside of Tour de France season, you may encounter tourists who have come specifically to photograph or hike, so you need to be mindful of pedestrians and temporarily parked vehicles while riding.

The Queyras region, where the Col d’Izoard sits, is a relatively low-key but ecologically rich area within France’s national park system, home to diverse alpine vegetation and wildlife habitats. This adds a layer of meaning to riding the Izoard—a sense of “passing through a protected area.” What you see along the way is not just cycling scenery, but part of a high-mountain ecosystem that the French government has worked for years to protect. If you encounter wildlife during your ride (such as chamois or other alpine species), keep your distance, slow down, and do not deliberately disturb or chase them for photos. This is basic respect when entering a natural reserve.

Route Basics

The Col d’Izoard has two main routes to the summit, starting from Briançon on the north side (via Cervières) and from Château-Queyras on the south side (via Guillestre). The figures below are compiled from multiple public climb databases. Different sources use different starting points and measurement methods, so numbers will vary—treat them as approximate values, and defer to official road signs and on-site markers.

The character of the two sides is distinctly different: the north side from Briançon is longer but with gentler gradients and richer forest scenery along the way; the south side is shorter but with more concentrated, steeper gradients, and it enters rocky terrain similar to the Casse Déserte earlier, making it feel harder in terms of perceived effort.

Segment by Segment: Two Sides, Two Completely Different Experiences

North Side Route (starting from Briançon via Cervières)

The opening section follows a gentle valley floor, passing through Cervières, a typical Alpine village, with relatively mild gradients that serve as a good warm-up. After Cervières, the gradient gradually increases as you enter the middle section, characterised by alternating forest and meadow landscapes. The final few kilometres gradually approach the edge of the Casse Déserte, where vegetation begins to thin out, visually setting the stage for the barren terrain to come.

South Side Route (starting from the Guillestre area)

From the very start, the gradients on this side are more concentrated and steeper, passing through typical high-mountain villages and gorge terrain of the Queyras region, with more varied views. This route enters rocky terrain similar to the Casse Déserte earlier, letting riders feel that desolate, solitary atmosphere sooner—which also means the psychological and physical pressure of the climb arrives earlier and more intensely.

Confluence: The Casse Déserte and the Summit

Whichever side you start from, you will eventually converge into the iconic barren terrain of the Casse Déserte. The gradient on this stretch is not the steepest of the entire climb, but the visual shock and sense of isolation often amplify riders’ mental fatigue. The monument to Coppi and Bobet sits within this wasteland, a landmark where many cyclists deliberately stop to pay their respects. Beyond the Casse Déserte, the route climbs relatively gently to the highest point of the pass, with open views across the peaks of the Queyras region.

The facilities at the summit are relatively simple, without the large tourist amenities or souvenir shops found at some famous passes. This “plainness” is precisely what preserves the Col d’Izoard’s un-commercialised, raw atmosphere. Many seasoned cyclists who have ridden numerous famous passes are especially fond of the Izoard’s quieter, less crowded character—a place where you can truly settle into the solitude of the mountains—believing it comes closer to the original spirit of climbing by bike than some of the more bustling pilgrimage sites: one person, one bike, facing one mountain.

Power and Pacing Estimates: Let the Physics Do the Math

Using a simplified climbing physics model common in the industry, here are estimated times for the north and south side routes for riders of different abilities:

P = (Fg + Fr + Fa) × v / drivetrain efficiency

Fg = m × g × sin(arctan(gradient))       gravitational component
Fr = m × g × cos(arctan(gradient)) × Crr   rolling resistance
Fa = 0.5 × ρ × CdA × v²                  aerodynamic drag

Assumed parameters for the calculation:

• Rider weight 70 kg + bike and gear 9 kg, total approx. 79 kg
• Gravitational acceleration g = 9.81 m/s²
• Coefficient of rolling resistance Crr ≈ 0.005
• Drag area CdA ≈ 0.32 m² (climbing position)
• Air density adjusted for average elevation (north side approx. 1,800 m, south side approx. 1,900 m)
• Drivetrain efficiency approx. 0.975

North Side Route (Briançon via Cervières, 19.0 km):

South Side Route (Guillestre area, 14.1 km):

Both tables are physical model estimates that do not account for wind, road conditions, or rider size differences, so actual times will vary. Looking at the numbers, although the south side is shorter, because the gradients are more concentrated and steeper, the time required at the same power-to-weight ratio is not vastly different from the north side—and is even shorter. But this does not mean the south side is “easier”; concentrated gradients make perceived fatigue heavier, something that pure distance and time figures cannot fully capture. As for record times by professional riders on this stretch in the Tour de France, records from different eras and timing methods are themselves disputed, so this article does not cite any specific times.

A Taiwanese Rider’s Perspective: How Does It Compare to Wuling and Fengguizui?

At approximately 2,360 metres, the Col d’Izoard is nearly a thousand metres lower than Wuling, and its total ascent is relatively moderate. Among the five classic French climbs introduced in this article, it is numerically the most “approachable.” But its uniqueness lies not in the numbers, but in the visual and psychological experience of the Casse Déserte—a terrain that has no equivalent in Taiwan.

Similarities: Both require sustained, continuous climbing output over a medium-to-long duration, and both involve vegetation and temperature changes from valley to high mountain.

Differences:

1. The visual impact of the terrain has no Taiwanese equivalent. The route up Wuling features continuous high-mountain forest and grassland, gradually transitioning to alpine tundra; the Casse Déserte on the Col d’Izoard, by contrast, is an abrupt, dramatic geological transition with almost no gradual build-up. This kind of impact is hard to find on any climbing route in Taiwan.
2. The numerical difficulty is relatively friendly, but the mental challenge should not be underestimated. Compared with Wuling or the other French passes in this article, the Izoard’s gradient and ascent are relatively accessible, but the lonely, desolate atmosphere of the Casse Déserte can place unexpected psychological pressure on riders, especially when riding solo.
3. The two sides each have their own character. Wuling essentially has only one main route, whereas the Izoard’s north and south sides offer distinctly different rhythms and terrain variations, making it suitable for a round-trip that lets you experience two completely different faces of the same pass.

A practical way to gauge it: If you have climbing experience on Fengguizui or the Beiyi Highway, completing either side of the Col d’Izoard should not be difficult from a fitness standpoint. What you really need to prepare for is the psychological adjustment to the barren terrain of the Casse Déserte, as well as respecting the riding etiquette and atmosphere around the monument.

For Taiwanese riders, the Col d’Izoard may be the best choice among the five classic French climbs in this article as a “first European climbing experience.” Its gradient and ascent lack the intimidating nature of Alpe d’Huez or the Tourmalet, and it does not require preparing for the two-part structure and high-altitude cold of the Galibier, yet it still offers a complete experience of the rhythm, culture, and landscape impact of European mountain climbing. If you are planning your first European cycling pilgrimage, placing the Col d’Izoard early in your itinerary as a warm-up for adapting to the local climate, road conditions, and cycling culture is a very sensible arrangement.

It is also worth noting that the overall elevation and terrain diversity of the Queyras region bear a certain resemblance to some of the lesser-discussed cross-mountain roads in Taiwan’s Central Mountain Range—both are mountain transport corridors connecting different valleys and villages. The difference is that the Col d’Izoard, thanks to Tour de France exposure, enjoys an international fame and cultural depth that most Taiwanese cross-mountain roads lack. This also reminds Taiwanese riders that our own mountain regions hold many routes deserving wider recognition; they simply lack the narrative value built up over time by racing history and human stories, as the Izoard has.

If you want to simulate the Izoard’s rhythm using Taiwanese climbs: Fengguizui is good for simulating the relatively concentrated, steeper rhythm of the south side; Beiyi Highway suits the longer, gentler pacing of the north side. As for the psychological impact of the Casse Déserte’s geological landscape, it is advisable to build mental expectations in advance through video and images, so that the shock on site does not distract you and compromise riding safety.

Practical Information for Riding

Seasonal considerations: The Col d’Izoard is closed in winter. It typically opens between late spring and early autumn, with exact dates varying each year depending on snow conditions. Be sure to check current local road condition announcements before departure; do not rely on outdated online information.

Base accommodation: Briançon is a common base on the north side and an important transport hub for the Queyras region, with relatively complete facilities. The Guillestre area on the south side retains more of the Queyras region’s rural character, suitable for riders who prefer a quieter atmosphere.

Bike rental and equipment: As a regional hub, Briançon has relatively mature road bike rental and repair services. Please confirm specific prices, opening hours, and service details directly with shops or the local tourist information office.

Refuelling strategy: The village of Cervières (north side) and villages around Guillestre (south side) offer basic refuelling points, but there are almost no options around the Casse Déserte. Based on an estimated climb time of 1 to 2 hours on this route, it is recommended to consume approximately 500 to 800 ml of fluid per hour, along with moderate carbohydrate intake. If you plan to spend extra time at the summit (e.g., photographing the Casse Déserte landscape or paying respects at the monument), bring extra water and supplies to avoid running short.

Route combination suggestions: The Col d’Izoard is well positioned geographically—northward, it connects to routes toward the Galibier; southward, it extends into other villages and gorge terrain of the Queyras region. If time allows, a multi-day itinerary covering the Izoard and one or two surrounding passes will give you a fuller appreciation of the region’s layered landscapes and cultural atmosphere than a single-day out-and-back.

Best time to start: Early morning, because temperatures are cooler, the light angle is better for photographing the Casse Déserte’s geological features, and you can avoid the afternoon thunderstorms that may develop in the mountains.

Safety Reminders (Please Read Carefully)

Sun exposure and lack of shade in the barren terrain: There is almost no tree cover around the Casse Déserte, and with sunlight reflecting off the rocks, UV exposure can be considerable. Prepare adequate sun protection and carry enough water. A cap, sunglasses, and sunscreen are essential items for this stretch.

Descent risks: Both sides feature continuous switchbacks on the descent, especially on the steeper south side. On long descents, use intermittent hard braking to avoid overheating and brake fade, and always watch for rocks or gravel on the road.

Weather changes: Even though the Col d’Izoard is not the highest pass, mountain weather can change rapidly. Carry a packable windbreaker to cope with temperature swings, especially on the exposed terrain of the Casse Déserte, where wind shifts are particularly noticeable.

Traffic rule differences: French mountain roads are mostly two-way, and some sections have limited visibility. Before overtaking, always check that it is safe behind you. Riding steadily on the right is the basic principle.

Racing on open roads is not recommended. This road attracts large numbers of amateur riders each year chasing personal records, but on public roads there are other road users and unpredictable conditions. Chasing a time is not worth risking your safety. Around the monument, also maintain appropriate solemnity and respect; do not do anything dangerous for the sake of a photo.

Special population reminder: If you have a history of cardiovascular disease, asthma, or other chronic conditions, consult a physician for evaluation before undertaking prolonged high-intensity climbing. If you experience chest tightness, abnormal shortness of breath, dizziness, or confusion during the climb, stop immediately and seek help. The content of this article cannot replace professional medical evaluation; individual differences are significant, so progress gradually.

Common Mistakes Checklist

1. Underestimating the concentration of gradients on the south side—shorter distance does not mean easier; steeper gradients mean less margin for error in pacing.
2. Neglecting sun protection and refuelling around the Casse Déserte—this stretch has almost no shade or supply options.
3. Carrying only one bottle—refuelling points on mountain roads are scarcer than you might think.
4. Starting at noon—the hottest time of day, with a higher risk of afternoon thunderstorms.
5. Ignoring riding safety to photograph the Casse Déserte—this road still has traffic; when stopping for photos, choose a safe shoulder position.
6. Relying entirely on online gradient data for mental expectations—different platforms record different lengths and ascents.
7. Ignoring riding etiquette around the monument—this place holds special meaning for many riders; remain quiet and respectful.

Action Checklist: From Today to Standing in the Middle of the Casse Déserte

Fitness preparation (6 to 10 weeks before departure)

• Schedule one to two 45-to-90-minute continuous climbing sessions per week
• Every two to three weeks, plan one longer ride with total ascent of 800 metres or more
• If choosing the south side, add high-intensity, concentrated-gradient interval training
• All training recommendations should be progressive; individual differences are significant. If you experience persistent pain or unusual fatigue, reduce volume and seek professional evaluation

Equipment checklist

• Gearing: it is recommended to have a lightest gear of at least 34×30
• Braking system: confirm sufficient brake pad thickness
• Clothing: windbreaker, sun protection

Trip planning checklist

• Confirm the pass’s opening dates and road condition announcements for the year
• If time allows, ride both the north and south sides to experience different rhythms and terrain
• Consider combining the Izoard with other sights in the Queyras region into a multi-day light tour

On-the-day checklist

• Start early in the morning, with adequate carbohydrate intake before departure
• Maintain a steady effort, saving energy for the stretch around the Casse Déserte
• Drink every 20 minutes, supplementing carbohydrates as needed
• Slow down at the monument, remaining quiet and respectful
• Use intermittent braking on descents, and watch for corners with limited visibility

The gravel wasteland of the Casse Déserte quietly bears witness to a cycling friendship that spans generations. It lacks the bustling crowds of Alpe d’Huez and the iconic, solitary fame of Mont Ventoux, yet in a completely different way, it makes every rider who has pedalled through here remember the unique character of the Col d’Izoard—a quiet, plain, yet profoundly deep mountain memory, worth riding yourself to slowly appreciate.

Related Reading

• One Iron Cross, Three Roads: How the Col de la Croix de Fer Rules the Alpine Cycling Pilgrimage Map with “Flexibility”
• 21 Hairpins, 13.8 Kilometres: Why Alpe d’Huez Is the Most Pilgrimaged Climb in the World
• At 2,642 Metres, the Highest Point Most Visited by the Tour: The Double Trial of the Col du Galibier
• The Jewel in the Dolomites’ Crown: A Complete Guide to the Passo Pordoi and the Sella Ronda Four-Pass Loop