Cycling Taiwan’s Outlying Islands: A Bicycle Travelogue of Penghu, Kinmen, and Matsu

Taiwan’s beauty extends beyond the mountains and coastlines of the main island, reaching the outlying island groups scattered across the Taiwan Strait. Penghu, Kinmen, and Matsu—these three names carry distinct historical memories and natural landscapes, each offering cycling experiences that captivate bicycle travelers. This article will take you across these three outlying islands to experience the most remote corners of Taiwan’s territory.

Penghu Archipelago

Geography Overview

Penghu County comprises 64 islands, situated in the center of the Taiwan Strait. The highest point in the county is no more than 80 meters above sea level, with low, flat terrain that makes it an ideal environment for flat-road cycling. Penghu’s most distinctive landform is the basalt terrain—hexagonal columnar basalt formed from volcanic eruptions millions of years ago, scattered along the coastlines of various islands, creating a geological landscape unique to Taiwan.

Main Route: Penghu Main Island Loop (Approx. 45 km)

Penghu Main Island (Magong Island) connects with Baisha Island and Xiyu to form a rideable grand loop:

Magong City → Penghu Great Bridge → Baisha Island → Xiyu (Yuweng Island) → Return

• Distance: Approx. 45 km
• Difficulty: Easy to Moderate (flat terrain, but strong sea winds)
• Time: Approx. 4 to 6 hours (including sightseeing stops)

Main Attractions:

• Tianhou Temple: Built in 1604, it is the oldest Mazu temple in Taiwan and the religious center of Penghu
• Penghu Great Bridge: 2,494 meters in total length, it is the longest cross-sea bridge in Taiwan, offering expansive views from the bridge where sea and sky merge on both sides
• Kuibishan Geopark: At low tide, the seawater recedes, revealing a gravel path connecting Kuibishan and Chiyu, resembling “Moses parting the sea”
• Xiyu Lighthouse: Built in 1778, it is the oldest Western-style lighthouse in Taiwan, with well-preserved historical remains
• Xiaomen Geological Center: Explains the basalt terrain, allowing close observation of hexagonal columnar jointing

Outlying Island Routes: Jibei Island, Qimei Island

To explore Penghu’s outlying islands, you can take a ferry with your bicycle:

• Jibei Island: The largest island in Penghu’s northern waters, famous for its beaches and water activities, with approximately 10 km of rideable routes on the island
• Qimei Island: The southernmost island of Penghu, home to the Twin-Heart Stone Weir, Taiwan’s most romantic landmark, with an island loop of approximately 15 km

Penghu Cycling Notes

Penghu experiences strong winds year-round. During the autumn and winter months (October to March), when the northeast monsoon blows, wind speeds often reach force five to six, making headwind riding extremely strenuous. It is recommended to visit in summer (June to August)—although hot, the winds are lighter, and summer is Penghu’s peak tourist season, with more ample attraction opening hours and ferry schedules.

Kinmen County

Geography Overview

Kinmen County is located at the mouth of Xiamen Bay, separated from mainland China by a mere strip of water, with the closest distance being less than 2 km. Kinmen was once the front line of military confrontation between the two sides of the Taiwan Strait, having been under wartime administration from 1949 to 1992. As a result, it retains a wealth of military relics and traditional Southern Fujian architecture, forming a unique historical and cultural landscape.

Main Route: Kinmen Main Island Grand Loop (Approx. 60 km)

The island-cycling route around Kinmen Main Island (Greater Kinmen) is the most complete among Taiwan’s outlying islands:

Jincheng → Guningtou → Beishan → Jinhu → Taiwu Mountain → Jincheng

• Distance: Approx. 60 km
• Elevation Gain: Approx. 500 meters (Taiwu Mountain section)
• Difficulty: Moderate
• Time: Approx. 5 to 7 hours

Main Attractions:

• Jincheng Old Street: Well-preserved traditional Southern Fujian street houses, lined with archways, temples, and old dwellings—a microcosm of Kinmen culture
• Guningtou Battle Museum: The site of the last major battle between the Nationalists and Communists in 1949, where tanks remain displayed on the beach to this day
• Mashan Observation Station: The closest point of Taiwan’s territory to mainland China; on clear days, the high-rises of Xiamen City are clearly visible
• Taiwu Mountain: Kinmen’s highest peak (253 meters above sea level), topped with the “Never Forget You Are in Ju” stone inscription, a spiritual landmark of Kinmen
• Zhaishan Tunnel: A water tunnel carved into granite that can be explored by boat—the most awe-inspiring military relic
• Shuitou Settlement: The best-preserved cluster of Southern Fujian overseas Chinese architecture, blending Western-style mansions with traditional old houses, offering excellent photographic compositions

Kinmen Specialty Culture

Kinmen’s specialties are deeply intertwined with its history and culture:

• Kinmen Kaoliang Liquor: Distilled from locally grown sorghum, high in alcohol content with a distinctive flavor, it is Taiwan’s most famous spirit
• Kinmen Peanut Candy: A traditional snack made primarily from peanuts, a top choice for gift-giving
• Shell Casing Knives: Knives forged from scrap artillery shell steel, the most symbolic souvenir of Kinmen

Lesser Kinmen Route

Take a ferry (vehicle ferry) to Lesser Kinmen (Lieyu) for an island loop of approximately 16 km, offering an in-depth experience of the small island’s tranquil atmosphere. Hushan Tunnel and Hujingtou War Museum are key attractions.

Matsu Islands

Geography Overview

The Matsu Islands consist of major islands including Nangan, Beigan, Juguang, and Dongyin, located off the mouth of the Min River in Fujian Province, approximately 20 km from Fuzhou on the Chinese mainland. Matsu’s terrain is predominantly granite mountains—while not high in elevation, the topography features pronounced undulations. Houses are built into the hillsides, and traditional Eastern Fujian stone-house villages are the most distinctive architectural landscape.

Nangan Route (Approx. 24 km Loop)

Nangan Island is the capital island of Matsu, covering approximately 10.4 square kilometers. The island loop is about 24 km with undulating terrain, making it the most challenging route among the outlying islands.

Main Attractions:

• Matsu Tianhou Temple: The main temple enshrining Mazu (Lin Moniang); legend holds that Mazu’s remains were buried here, and it is the origin of the name “Matsu”
• Iron Fort (Stronghold): A military stronghold converted from an isolated offshore reef, with well-preserved internal tunnels—the most striking wartime landscape in Matsu
• Yuntai Mountain: Nangan’s highest peak (248 meters above sea level), offering panoramic views of the Nangan coastline
• Magang Old Street: A village preserving traditional Eastern Fujian stone houses, where painted walls, cafés, and art studios blend together
• Beihai Tunnel: An underground waterway excavated into granite, explorable by small boat, rivaling Kinmen’s Zhaishan Tunnel in fame

Beigan Route (Approx. 20 km)

Beigan’s Qiaozai Village is the best-preserved traditional fishing village in Matsu, with century-old stone houses stacked up the hillside, now transformed into a cultural and creative settlement. Qinbi Village is equally renowned for its Eastern Fujian architecture and has been named one of Taiwan’s most beautiful fishing villages.

Matsu Blue Tears

Matsu’s most enchanting natural wonder is the “Blue Tears”—a blue bioluminescence emitted by noctiluca algae when disturbed. From March to June each year, Matsu’s bays glow with dreamlike blue light at night, hailed as one of the world’s most spectacular bioluminescent phenomena—the perfect finale after an evening ride.

Comparison of the Three Outlying Islands

Taiwan’s outlying islands are often overlooked treasures on the island’s travel map. Slowly cycling through the small roads of these islands, feeling the ruggedness of Penghu’s sea winds, the weight of Kinmen’s history, and the tranquility of Matsu’s stone houses—every pedal stroke is an encounter with a different face of Taiwan.

Related Reading

• Cycling Taiwan’s Outlying Islands: Route Features of Penghu, Kinmen, and Green Island
• Penghu Bicycle Travel: Island Charm and Township Routes
• Penghu Archipelago Bicycle Travel: A Special Experience of Island Charm and Ocean Scenery
• Penghu Cycling Guide: Island Flat-Road Riding and Fishing Village Culture