Riding in the Mountainous Jianshi Township: A Cultural Ride Through Atayal Tribal Villages in Hsinchu’s Mountains

Jianshi Township in Hsinchu County is named after “Jianshi” (pointed rock), which derives from a giant cone-shaped reef standing in the river valley, meaning “Naro” in the Atayal language. Jianshi Township is an important settlement of Taiwan’s Atayal people and is also one of the most rugged and culturally richest areas in Hsinchu’s mountain region.

Geographic Background

Jianshi Township covers a total area of approximately 524 square kilometers, making it the largest township in Hsinchu County, while also being a mountainous township with extremely low population density. The township is divided into two regions: the “Front Mountain” and the “Back Mountain”:

• Front Mountain: Zhudong → Naro → Jinlu, with relatively convenient transportation
• Back Mountain: Tianpu → Xiuluan → Cinsbu, requiring permits to enter, with steeper roads

Route Information: Zhudong → Xiuluan (Front Mountain Section)

Riding by Sections

Zhudong → Hengshan → Jianshi (0–20km)

Starting from Zhudong, head south along Provincial Highway 3, then after passing Hengshan Township, take County Road 122 into Jianshi Township. The gradient here is gentle, with agricultural settlement landscapes dominating, riding along the Shangping River valley.

Supply Note: Zhudong’s urban area is the last full supply point before departure; after that, there is almost no reliable supply until Xiuluan.

Jianshi → Naro (20–30km)

After entering Jianshi Township, the gradient gradually increases. Naro is a famous production area for hydrangeas. During the blooming season from May to July each year, the hydrangeas (hydrangea macrophylla) bloom in abundance beside the Naro River valley, making it the most popular flower-viewing spot in Hsinchu’s mountain region.

Highlights of Naro:

• Naro River Valley: clear streams, pebble riverbed
• Naro Skywalk: transparent glass bridge overlooking the river valley
• Atayal traditional culture workshops

Naro → Jiale (30–40km)

This section begins the true mountain climbs, with gradients of approximately 6–8% and narrow road surfaces. Along the way lies the traditional hunting territory of the Atayal people, with lush forests and the sound of streams accompanying the ride.

Jiale → Xiuluan (40–50km)

In the final 10 kilometers, gradients occasionally reach 8–10% steep climbs, and some road sections have gravel and potholes. Upon arriving at Xiuluan, a vast river valley landscape opens up before you, with traditional Atayal settlements on the opposite bank.

Xiuluan:

• Xiuluan Hot Spring: one of Taiwan’s rare carbonated springs, colorless and odorless, beneficial to the skin
• The Back Mountain (toward Cinsbu) requires a permit to enter the indigenous reserved land; cycling ends here

In-Depth Introduction to Atayal Culture

The Atayal are one of the most widely distributed indigenous peoples in Taiwan, with traditional territories extending from the mountain regions of Taoyuan and Hsinchu to Yilan and eastern Taichung. Several core aspects of Atayal culture:

Gaga (Ancestral Law)

Gaga is the spiritual core of the Atayal people, a normative system encompassing headhunting, agriculture, marriage, and rituals. Traditionally, those who violated gaga would be punished by ancestral spirits.

Facial Tattooing

Traditionally, Atayal men tattooed their foreheads and women their chins, representing adult status and ethnic identity. Due to prohibition under Japanese colonial rule and the influence of modernization, the facial tattooing tradition has nearly disappeared, though it can still be seen among surviving elders.

Traditional Weaving

The Atayal are renowned for their geometric-patterned woven fabrics in red, black, and white stripes, the most recognizable style among Taiwan’s indigenous textiles. Several tribes in Jianshi Township maintain traditional weaving instruction, which can be experienced at tribal cultural centers.

Tribal Cuisine

Back Mountain: Cinsbu Giant Tree Forest (Advanced Option)

To extend the trip to the Back Mountain, you can apply for entry to Cinsbu (Tianpu Tribe) after staying in Xiuluan. Cinsbu is home to Taiwan’s largest grove of red cypress giant trees, with some over 2,000 years old. Walking through the primeval forest, you can experience Taiwan’s most pristine mountain forest culture.

(The road conditions for cycling on the Back Mountain section are poor, requiring off-road capability, or alternatively switching to hiking with shuttle transport.)

Riding Season

Conclusion

Riding through Jianshi Township is one of the most “profound” experiences in Taiwan’s mountain travel. The climbs themselves are challenging enough to make your body feel it; while the tribal culture, river valley landscapes, and pristine mountain forests give the journey a spiritual weight.

After riding through Jianshi, you will better understand how Taiwan’s mountains and people have grown together on this land over thousands of years.

Related Reading

• Hsinchu Jianshi Township Route: Mountain Challenge and Indigenous Culture Journey
• Hsinchu Jianshi Township Mountain Route: Climbing Training Route Guide Through Indigenous Tribal Mountains
• Hsinchu Jianshi Township Mountain Bike Route: Off-Road Exploration Around Smangus
• The Breath of Mount Basian: Racing Yourself in the Atayal Forests