Jianshi Naluo and the First Section of Smangus: A Mid-Elevation Forest Gravel Ride in Northern Taiwan

The Road Before the Tribal Lands of God

Smangus is known as the “Tribal Lands of God,” but the Jianshi back-mountain road leading to it is itself a hardcore mid-elevation forest route. The front section from Naluo through Yulao and Xiuluan spans roughly 40 kilometers with about 1,300 meters of cumulative climbing—narrow, winding, and steep, it is one of the few pristine mountain rides in northern Taiwan.

Route Information

Yulao Lookout

Yulao is the saddle dividing the front and back mountains of Jianshi. From the lookout, you can see sea of clouds over both ranges—it is the visual high point and psychological waystation of this route.

Back-Mountain Road Risk Checklist and Safety Guidelines

The Jianshi back mountain is one of the few roads in northern Taiwan that still retains a raw, undeveloped feel, and the risks are correspondingly higher than on ordinary suburban mountain roads. Please treat this checklist as required reading before you go:

• Narrow road, difficult passing: Many sections between Yulao and Xiuluan are only wide enough for one vehicle. Control your speed extremely carefully on descents, and assume “a car may be coming” around every blind corner
• Rockfall and landslides: Risk multiplies after rain and earthquakes. If conditions are uncertain, rather abandon the day’s ride
• Many signal dead zones: Several sections have no mobile reception. Always carry offline maps, ride with companions, and tell someone your itinerary and expected check-in time before departing
• Access control: Smangus and some back-mountain tribes enforce vehicle and visitor caps. Confirm reservation and access regulations before heading deeper
• Weather: Dense fog and thunderstorms often roll in during the afternoon in the mountains, and visibility can drop suddenly. Start early, finish early, and keep your lights on the entire way

Make “if uncertain, don’t proceed” your highest rule—the back mountain does not tolerate overconfidence.

Tribal Etiquette

The route passes through Atayal tribal communities. When entering a village, slow down, keep noise down, and ask permission before photographing residents. Smangus enforces visitor caps, so confirm reservation and access regulations before going deeper.

Smangus Access Control and Trip Planning

Many riders only realize at Xiuluan that “you can’t go any further in.” Smangus (located beyond the Taigang junction) has long enforced vehicle caps and time-window controls, with one-way traffic during certain periods, and you must confirm the current year’s regulations and whether reservations are required. If you plan to go all the way to Smangus, be sure to factor in these points: confirm the year’s access windows and directions, reserve enough energy for the steeper climb after Taigang, and include an overnight option (tribal homestays must be booked in advance). Don’t treat “ride to Xiuluan first and see” as a plan—the back mountain leaves no room for improvisation, and poor planning can easily leave you stuck between a rock and a hard place.

Supplies

Naluo and Xiuluan have small shops and tribal food stalls (some serving wild boar and maqaw-flavored meals). Supply points are scarce and far apart, and the deeper you go, the fewer shops there are. Be sure to top up water and carry enough food at Naluo and Xiuluan.

This road taught me that riding into someone’s homeland demands respect. The mountain is not our arena, and the tribes are not our backdrop—slow down, keep your voice low, and only then are you worthy of this land’s hospitality.

Related Reading

• Hsinchu Jianshi Township Mountain Routes: A Climbing Training Route Guide Through Indigenous Tribal Mountains
• Hsinchu Jianshi Township Mountain Bike Routes: Off-Road Exploration Around Smangus
• The Crossroads Deep in Jianshi: Yufeng to Yulao, a Ride Through Clouds and Mist
• Yufeng to Yulao Practical Guide: The 8.3 km, 8.2% Average Grade Tough-Man Test of Jianshi Township