Crampons, Ice Axes, and Ropes: Essential Technical Gear for Winter Mountaineering in Taiwan

Introduction

The high-altitude environment during Taiwan’s snow season is unique: elevations above 3,500m, low snowfall, and frequent icing. The technical gear required is not as extreme as that in the European Alps, but it is certainly not a case of buying any random pair of crampons and heading up the mountain. This article provides recommendations based on the actual conditions of Taiwan’s snow season.

Crampon Classification

Crampons are classified by the number of points and the attachment method:

Grade	Points	Suitable Scenarios	Footwear Requirements
Simple Snow Chains	6–10	Gentle snow surfaces	Standard hiking boots
Aluminum 10-Point	10	Snow slopes, gentle ice slopes	Mid-to-high cut boots
Steel 12-Point (Semi-auto)	12	Icy steep slopes	Semi-rigid high-cut boots
Steel 12+ Point (Full-auto)	12+	Technical ice walls	Fully rigid mountaineering boots

For 90% of scenarios on Hehuanshan or the main and east peaks of Xueshan during Taiwan’s snow season, “Aluminum 10-point” or “Steel 12-point semi-auto” crampons are sufficient. Full-auto crampons are only needed for technical ice climbing.

Ice Axe

The core function of an ice axe is self-arrest, which allows you to plunge the axe into the snow to stop your descent if you slip on a snow slope.

Selection points:

• Length: Height × 0.3; for most people, 50–60 cm
• Weight: 300–500 g
• Straight vs. Curved Shaft: Taiwan’s snow season mostly uses straight-shaft “Mountain Axes”
• Recommendations: Petzl Glacier, Black Diamond Raven, CAMP Corsa.

Snow Season Ropes

Sometimes ropes are needed to pass dangerous sections during snow season mountaineering:

• 50–60m × 9–10mm dynamic rope (snow climbing standard)
• 30m short rope (general snow season traverse assistance)

For the Hehuan peaks and the main and east peaks of Xueshan, ropes are generally not needed, but for the ridgeline icy sections of Qilai North/Main Peak and Nanhu Mountain, carrying a short rope is recommended.

Harness and Quickdraws

If you are going to use a rope, you must wear a harness. For Taiwan’s snow season, a lightweight climbing harness (250–400 g) is typically used. Equip it with two 60 cm and two 120 cm slings, 3 locking carabiners, and 1 ATC belay device.

Snow Season Footwear Pairing

Whether crampons can be attached to your boots depends on the rigidity of the sole:

• Soft-sole hiking boots: Only compatible with snow chains
• Mid-cut, mid-sole: Aluminum 10-point
• High-cut, rigid-sole: Steel 12-point
• Fully rigid mountaineering boots (e.g., La Sportiva Trango): Full-auto crampons

Snow Goggles and Sun Protection

Snow reflects 90% of UV rays, so standard sunglasses are not enough. For the snow season, it is strongly recommended to have:

• UV400 snow goggles or wrap-around sunglasses
• SPF 50+ sunscreen (reapply every 90 minutes)
• Lip balm to prevent chapping

Snow Season Gloves

Three-layer glove system:

• Thin synthetic liner gloves (keep on when operating gear)
• Mid-layer insulating gloves (fleece or PrimaLoft)
• Outer waterproof gloves (Gore-Tex shell)

Practical Recommendations

Recommended for Taiwan’s snow season:

• Beginner Hehuan: YakTrax Snow Chains (180g, NT$1,500)
• Xueshan Main/East Peaks: CAMP XLC 390 (Aluminum 10-point, 390g, NT$3,500)
• Nanhu Snow Training: Grivel G12 New-Matic (Steel 12-point, 960g, NT$5,500)
• Ice Axe: Petzl Glacier 60cm (370g, NT$2,800)

Conclusion

Technical gear for the snow season is not for showing off; it is life-saving equipment. Before buying, be sure to attend a snow training course to learn self-arrest and how to walk in crampons. Every year during Taiwan’s snow season, there are mountain accidents, mostly involving people who have complete gear but lack the necessary skills. Learn how to use it first, then take it to the mountain.

Related Reading

• Winter Cycling Gear Guide: Dressing Rules for Both Warmth and Function
• Gear Ratio Selection for Hill Climbs: Pre-race Crankset and Cassette Configuration Advice
• When to Shift on Climbs: A Complete Guide to Bicycle Gear Ratio Selection
• Winter Cycling Gear Guide: Maintaining Your Passion for Riding in the Cold