East Rift Valley: The Most Beautiful Cycling Route from Hualien to Taitung

Introduction

From Hualien to Taitung, riders face a choice between two routes: Provincial Highway 11 (the Coastal Highway), which hugs the shoreline, and Provincial Highway 9 (the Valley Highway), which cuts through the heart of the valley. Both routes have their devotees, but if you ask which one better represents the soul of Taiwan’s backcountry, most seasoned riders will answer: the Huatung Valley, Provincial Highway 9.

Nestled between the Central Mountain Range and the Coastal Mountain Range, the valley stretches about 180 kilometers in length, with vast farmlands and scattered villages, making it one of Taiwan’s most uniquely shaped plains. Here, you’ll find not only stunning scenery but also indigenous culture, organic farming, and a slow-paced lifestyle—it’s the stretch of the island-wide cycling route where riders are most willing to ease off the pedals.

Route Overview

Key Sections

Shoufeng to Guangfu: Gateway to the Valley

After leaving Hualien City, the feeling of entering the valley builds gradually—buildings along the road thin out, mountain ridges rise in the distance, and the sky opens up. Morning rides are especially cool along the riverside in Shoufeng and the irrigation canals in Guangfu.

Guangfu is an important cultural center for the Amis people. Here, you can try traditional indigenous cuisine; sticky rice cakes (mochi) and wild boar sausage are common choices.

Yuli: The Heart of the Valley

Located in the middle section of the valley, Yuli Township is the most populous town in the Huatung Valley. The renowned Yuli noodles (a beef noodle variant) are a delicacy many riders make a detour to savor. The town has several bike repair shops, making it a great place to stock up on parts and fine-tune your bike.

Chishang: The Rice Paddy Poetry of Brown Boulevard

Brown Boulevard in Chishang Township is one of the most famous “photo-op” sections on the island-wide cycling route. This farm road, running straight through rice paddies, turns into a golden sea of rice waves around the autumn harvest (September–November), making it one of the most beautiful rural scenes in Taiwan. In spring (April–June), the season of tender green paddies offers a refreshingly different charm.

Note: Brown Boulevard is an agricultural road. Please do not ride into the edges of the rice paddies and respect farmers at work.

Guanshan Ring Cycling Path: A Gem of the Valley

Guanshan Township boasts Taiwan’s most complete dedicated cycling loop, at approximately 12 kilometers in length, with zero sharing of road space with cars. Circling through the valley’s wetlands, farmlands, and small streams, it’s a must-ride section of the valley route.

Guided route maps for the full loop can be rented near Guanshan Railway Station.

Luye Gaotai: Overlooking the Valley

The Luye Gaotai Hot Air Balloon Festival takes place every July–August. Even if you miss the balloon season, the panoramic valley view from the plateau itself is worth the climb. The climb from Provincial Highway 9 up to Luye Gaotai is about 3 kilometers with a gradient of roughly 8–10%, serving as the valley section’s little climbing challenge.

Provincial Highway 11 (Coastal Highway) vs. Provincial Highway 9 (Valley)

If time permits, consider these combinations:

• Hualien → Taitung via Provincial Highway 9 through the valley, then Taitung → Zhiben via Provincial Highway 11 along the coast and back to Taitung
• Or the reverse, contrasting the ocean views of the coastal highway with the farmlands of the valley

Provincial Highway 11 offers magnificent seaside scenery, but some sections are more complicated due to construction on the 11A spur; Provincial Highway 9 through the valley has stable road conditions with evenly distributed resupply points.

Practical Tips

• Ride early for the best experience: Afternoon southeast winds are stronger in the valley, making morning rides more comfortable
• Stock up on water and food in Yuli: Resupply points are relatively scattered on the Yuli-to-Taitung stretch
• Spend an extra half-day in Chishang: If your schedule allows, stay an extra night in Chishang; riding Brown Boulevard at dawn with almost no tourists around is the best time to experience it
• Bring insect repellent: Mosquitoes are plentiful around the valley’s farmlands, especially in the evening
• Watch for weekend TRA train schedules: If your itinerary falls behind in the valley section, you can catch a train at the small TRA stations in various townships

Conclusion

The Huatung Valley isn’t about speed—it’s about slowing down. Riding through endless rice paddies, with distant mountains quietly standing guard on both sides, and occasionally passing a temple or an old banyan tree, the whole world seems to hit pause. This is the stretch of the island-wide route most worth taking slowly, and the one most likely to make you decide, “I have to come back again.”

Related Reading

• Huatung Valley Route: An In-Depth Cycling Journey Through Valley Scenery from Hualien to Taitung
• Huatung Valley Cycling Tour: Taiwan’s Most Magnificent Long-Distance Riding Route
• Huatung Valley Cycling Trip: 163 km Route Planning and Resupply Guide from Hualien to Taitung
• Huatung Valley Cycling Route: A Journey Along Provincial Highway 9 Amid Rice Waves and Mountains