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Pingtung to Kaohsiung: Choosing Between the Coastal and Mountain Routes

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Pingtung to Kaohsiung: Choosing Between the Coastal Route and the Mountain Route

Introduction

After passing Fangliao and rounding the Eluanbi Lighthouse, you’ve already conquered the southernmost tip of the island. The next target is Kaohsiung. Many cyclists treat this stretch from Pingtung to Kaohsiung as a “rest segment”—after the mountains and seas of the east, the flat roads of the west should be a chance to catch your breath. But the coastal route and the mountain route offer vastly different scenery and experiences. Choosing the right route ensures this leg of the journey is more than just a transition.

Basic Comparison of the Two Routes

Item Coastal Route (Provincial Highway 17) Mountain Route (Provincial Highway 1)
Distance Approx. 120 km Approx. 110 km
Terrain Flat, occasional gentle slopes Mostly flat, a few gradual climbs
Scenery Taiwan Strait, fishing harbors, mangroves Farmland, traditional settlements, small towns
Supplies More scattered, fishing-village style Abundant, towns densely spaced
Wind Conditions Summer southwest winds may create headwinds Less wind inland
Recommended Timing Non-summer, sunny days Summer or when in a hurry

Coastal Route (Provincial Highway 17)

Features and Highlights

Provincial Highway 17 is the provincial highway closest to Taiwan’s west coast. Starting from Fangliao, it heads north along the Taiwan Strait, passing through fishing villages such as Donggang, Jiadong, and Linbian, before finally entering Kaohsiung.

The highlights of this route are:

  • Donggang: Dapeng Bay Wetlands and an international-standard racetrack. It’s the largest town on the Pingtung coast, rich in sailfish and bluefin tuna cuisine
  • Linbian and Jiadong: An important aquaculture region in Taiwan. Oyster racks and fish farms line the roadside, offering a glimpse of Taiwan’s coastal agricultural life
  • Fangliao: A key transfer point on Provincial Highway 17 and home to the Fangliao TRA station, with a traditional market full of fresh ingredients
  • Gateway to Xiaoliuqiu: Near Dapeng Bay, you can see the direction of Xiaoliuqiu. If your round-island schedule allows, a half-day round trip to Xiaoliuqiu is a popular “bonus leg” for many cyclists

Things to Note

  • On coastal sections, the southwest monsoon is strong on summer afternoons and can create significant headwinds, reducing average speed by 20–30%
  • Some sections through aquaculture areas have sand and dirt on the road and a fishy smell; road quality is not highway-grade
  • On the southern industrial harbor sections of Kaohsiung City, there are many heavy trucks, so maintain a safe position on the roadside

Mountain Route (Provincial Highway 1)

Features and Highlights

Compared to Provincial Highway 17, Provincial Highway 1 runs further inland. It’s slightly shorter, with more densely spaced supply points, making it suitable for cyclists on a tight schedule or those who want to avoid sea winds.

  • Chaozhou: The second-largest town in Pingtung County, with well-developed commercial facilities. You can replenish gear or parts here
  • Pingtung City: The county seat of Pingtung County, with convenience stores, pharmacies, and bike shops all readily available
  • Fengshan: An old urban district on the southeast side of Kaohsiung, rich in Qing Dynasty ruins and local snacks
  • Niaosong Wetlands: The Niaosong Wetlands Park next to Fengshan Reservoir is a good spot for a short rest

Options for Entering Kaohsiung City

Whether you take the coastal or mountain route, once you enter Kaohsiung City, you can consider the following routes:

  • Love River Bicycle Path: Ride along the Love River toward downtown Kaohsiung, with walkways and cafés on both banks
  • Hamasen Historic District: The earliest developed area in Kaohsiung. Slow down and soak in the atmosphere of the old harbor
  • Pier-2 Art Center: Stop and rest, and take a “made it to Kaohsiung” photo

Mixed-Route Strategy

If time permits, a “mixed” plan is recommended:

  1. Fangliao → Donggang: Provincial Highway 17 (enjoy sea views and fishing villages)
  2. Donggang → Pingtung: Provincial Highway 1 (convenient supplies)
  3. Pingtung → Kaohsiung: Provincial Highway 1 or bicycle paths (avoid heavy-truck sections)

This way, you can savor both the rustic charm of the coastal route and the convenience of the mountain route.

Practical Tips

  • Don’t skip Eluanbi: Detour onto Provincial Highway 26 to the Eluanbi Lighthouse and check in at the southernmost point. It’s a symbolic milestone of the round-island trip
  • Watch out for Kaohsiung city traffic: Kaohsiung has a high density of scooters. When entering the city, ride on the right and be aware of scooters on your right
  • Spend an extra half-day in Kaohsiung: Kaohsiung is the city on the round-island route where it’s most acceptable to “indulge” a little. Lotus Pond in Zuoying, the sunset at Sizihwan, and seafood in Cijin are all worth a visit
  • Provincial Highway 17 heading north from Kaohsiung: If your next stop is Tainan, you can head north along Provincial Highway 17 and enjoy the oyster-farming scenery of Mituo and Ziguan

Conclusion

The stretch from Pingtung to Kaohsiung is the dividing line where the round-island trip shifts from “grueling” to “enjoyable.” The mountain roads of the east are behind you; ahead lie the plains culture and urban charm of western Taiwan. The coastal route gives you sea breezes and memories of fishing villages; the mountain route gives you efficiency and convenience—pick one, or ride both, and let this leg become the transitional movement of your round-island journey.

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