
Introduction
The Penghu Archipelago, located in the center of the Taiwan Strait, consists of 90 islands of varying sizes, with a total area of approximately 128 square kilometers. Its landscape is the most unique in Taiwan—basalt columnar joint coastlines, white sand coral reef beaches, Dutch-era historic sites, and the traditional “cai zhai” (vegetable garden enclosures built from stacked basalt) culture that has nearly vanished from the Taiwan mainland.
Penghu’s terrain is predominantly flat (the highest point is only 79 meters), with almost no climbing challenges, making it the most suitable location for cycling among all of Taiwan’s outlying islands. However, Penghu presents one special challenge—strong winds. Penghu is Taiwan’s most intense monsoon zone, with winter northeast monsoons reaching force 10-12, and even in spring and summer, sea winds of force 5-7 are common. When cycling in Penghu, the ability to coexist with the wind matters more than climbing technique.
Main Island Cycling Routes
Penghu’s main island (Magong Proper) is connected to Baisha Island and Xiyu via the Penghu Cross-Sea Bridge, forming the primary cycling area in Penghu.
| Island | Circumnavigation Distance | Featured Attractions | Road Conditions |
|---|---|---|---|
| Magong Proper | Approx. 35km | Magong City Center, Guanyinting, Shanshui Beach | Flat, main roads |
| Baisha Island | Approx. 20km | Tongliang Banyan (300-year-old banyan tree), Kuibi Mountain Intertidal Zone | Flat, some trails |
| Xiyu (Yuweng Island) | Approx. 25km | Xiyu Western Fort, Erkan Old House Settlement | Flat, some gradients |
| Chrysanthemum Island Loop (Three-Island Circuit) | Approx. 75km | Cross-Sea Bridge, all the highlights | Flat, strong winds |
Must-Ride Routes in Penghu
Kuibi Mountain Geopark and the Parting of the Sea
During the major low tide periods from April to October each year, the underwater sandbar between Kuibi Mountain and Chiyu Island emerges, forming a “path in the sea” that can be walked or cycled across, which locals call the “Parting of the Sea.” After cycling to the Kuibi Mountain parking lot and walking toward Chiyu Island, you’ll experience Penghu’s most ceremonial natural spectacle.
Erkan Old House Settlement
Located at the southern tip of Xiyu, Erkan Village is one of Taiwan’s best-preserved traditional Minnan settlements, with the entire village designated as a “settlement heritage site.” White lime plaster walls, basalt foundations, and red brick round windows—these architectural elements form Penghu’s most recognizable cultural landscape. Cycling through the village offers a profound sense of traveling back in time.
Sunset on the Cross-Sea Bridge
The Penghu Cross-Sea Bridge spans 2,494 meters, making it Taiwan’s longest cross-sea bridge, connecting Baisha and Xiyu. Cycling across the bridge in the early evening, as the sunset casts an orange-red glow over the Taiwan Strait, is the most moving moment of cycling in Penghu.
Cycling Strategies for Coexisting with the Wind
Penghu’s strong winds are a reality every cyclist must face:
- Tailwind sections: Speed easily reaches 40km/h or more, enjoying natural acceleration
- Headwind sections: Speed may drop below 10km/h, requiring tremendous effort; it’s recommended to shift to a lower gear, reduce cadence, and maintain a steady output
- Crosswind sections: Require the most skill—keep a low center of gravity, grip the handlebars firmly with both hands, and avoid high speeds on open stretches like bridges
Recommended Strategy: When planning your route, follow the principle of riding out against the wind in the morning and returning with the wind in the afternoon (Penghu has northeast winds in winter and southwest winds in summer).
Practical Tips
- Best travel seasons: April-June (during the Fireworks Festival) and September-October (when wind speeds ease slightly and the sea remains warm); July-August is peak season with the most crowds but also the hottest weather
- Magong City Center has several YouBike and regular bicycle rental shops with reasonable rental fees
- Penghu delicacies not to be missed: cactus ice, baby clams, squid omelet, Penghu loofah with clams
- Ferries to outlying islands (Wangan, Qimei) are available, and some ferry services accept bicycles
- Sun protection is crucial in Penghu—with no shelter in any direction, UV intensity is higher than on the Taiwan mainland
Conclusion
Cycling in Penghu is a philosophical exercise in “simplicity.” There are no mountain challenges, no complex route maps—only sea winds, basalt, coral reefs, and sunsets over the strait. As you pedal into the trade winds and feel that rugged sea breeze coming off the Taiwan Strait, you’ll understand that Penghu’s cycling experience is precious precisely because of what it “doesn’t have”—and that is what makes it “have everything.”
Related Reading
- Penghu Cycling Tour: Island Charm and Routes Through Every Township
- Penghu Cycling Travel Guide: Flat Island Riding and Fishing Village Culture
- Penghu Archipelago Cycling Circumnavigation: Complete 3-Day, 2-Night Penghu Cycling Trip Plan
- Penghu Cycling Circumnavigation: The Distinctive Island Riding Experience of the Cross-Sea Bridge and Fishing Village Routes
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