The Joys and Hassles of Going Tubeless
A tubeless system lets you run lower tire pressure, all but eliminates pinch flats, and automatically seals small punctures. Sounds perfect, right? It is — but it also comes with its own maintenance demands.
What a Tubeless System Is Made Of
| Component | Function |
|---|---|
| Tubeless-compatible rim | The inner rim bed is sealed so it can hold air |
| Tubeless rim tape | Covers the spoke holes to prevent air leaks |
| Tubeless-ready tire | The bead is designed to seal against the rim |
| Tubeless valve | A dedicated valve with a rubber grommet that seals the rim |
| Sealant | A liquid compound that automatically plugs small punctures |
Installation Tips
Tubeless setup takes more effort than a traditional tube-and-tire install. Here’s what makes it go smoothly:
1. Apply the rim tape carefully
- The tape width should just cover every spoke hole
- Start opposite the valve hole and wrap one and a half times around
- Keep tension as you apply it — no wrinkles or air bubbles
2. Seat the bead
- Mount one side of the bead first (this should be easy)
- For the second side, start opposite the valve and work toward it
- The last section near the valve will be the tightest
3. Inflate and seat the tire (the hardest step)
- A standard hand pump often can’t move enough air — you’ll need a high-volume floor pump or a tubeless inflator/booster
- Inflate without sealant first to confirm the bead seats properly
- A series of “pop, pop” sounds means the bead has snapped into the rim’s bead lock
4. Add the sealant
- Once the bead is seated, remove the valve core
- Inject sealant through the valve stem with an applicator bottle
- Reinstall the valve core and inflate to the recommended pressure
- Shake and rotate the wheel so the sealant coats the inside evenly
Managing Sealant (Your Most Important Maintenance Task)
Sealant has a shelf life. Over time it evaporates and dries out.
| Item | Recommendation |
|---|---|
| Refresh interval | Every 2–3 months |
| Amount per refill (road tire) | 30–60 ml |
| Taiwan summers | Refresh more often — heat speeds up drying |
| How to check | Remove the valve core and probe with a thin rod, or shake the wheel and listen for liquid |
If your sealant dries out completely, your “tubeless” setup is really just a tubeless tire with no sealing ability left — any puncture will drain the tire flat immediately.
Common Sealant Brands
| Brand | Characteristics |
|---|---|
| Orange Seal Endurance | Long-lasting, strong sealing power |
| Silca Ultimate | Can seal holes up to 7mm |
| Stan’s NoTubes | The classic choice |
| Vittoria Universal | An all-purpose formula |
| Muc-Off No Puncture Hassle | An eco-friendly formula |
Everyday Maintenance Checklist
- Before every ride: Check tire pressure (tubeless tires still lose air slowly over time)
- Monthly: Shake the wheel to confirm you can still hear liquid sealant moving inside
- Every 2–3 months: Remove the valve core and top up with fresh sealant
- Annually: Fully strip the tire, clean out the dried-up old sealant, and reinstall from scratch
Roadside Emergency Fixes
What do you do if your tubeless tire tears a hole too big for the sealant to seal on the road?
Option 1: Tubeless plug kit
- Carry a tubeless tire plug kit
- Use the insertion tool to push a plug into the hole from outside
- It works much like plugging a car tire
Option 2: Stuff in a spare inner tube
- Yes, you can install a regular inner tube inside a tubeless tire in a pinch
- First wipe out as much sealant as you can (it will be sticky and messy)
- Install the tube, inflate normally, and ride home
- Once home, strip everything down and set the tire up tubeless again
So it’s still worth carrying a spare inner tube on every ride!
Tips for Riding Tubeless in Taiwan
- Road bikes: Tubeless works best paired with tire widths of 28mm or wider
- Gravel: Tubeless is almost mandatory — the puncture risk on loose, rocky surfaces is high
- Taiwan summers: Sealant dries out faster in the heat, so shorten your refresh interval to 6–8 weeks
- Stick with major-brand wheelsets and tires: Compatibility issues are the biggest headache with tubeless setups
Once a tubeless system is properly set up, the ride quality is genuinely better than running tubes. But “properly set up” only holds true if you’re willing to maintain it regularly.
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