Matsu Cycling Routes: Exploring Military Landscapes and Villages on Beigan and Nangan

Introduction

The Matsu Islands, located off the coast of Fujian Province in mainland China, are Taiwan’s northernmost outlying island group, comprising four main townships: Nangan, Beigan, Dongyin, and Juguang. Completely different from the island charm of Penghu, Matsu is renowned for its distinctive Min-Dong (Eastern Fujian) culture, military history, and unique natural landscapes. For cyclists, Matsu holds a particularly special appeal: dramatic terrain, winding roads, and quaint villages—every turn may reveal a tunnel or a sea view, making it the most culturally enriching choice among Taiwan’s outlying islands for cycling.

Basic Cycling Information for Matsu

Note: Matsu’s terrain is hilly; single-speed bicycles are not recommended for beginners. E-bikes or bikes with 21 or more gears are recommended.

Main Cycling Routes on Nangan

Nangan is the administrative center of Matsu, home to the Matsu Folk Culture Museum, Iron Fort, and Beihai Tunnel. Although the island’s roads total only about 35 kilometers, the gradients are steep. Below are the recommended routes:

Nangan Island Loop Route (approx. 20–25 km):

1. Jieshou Village (starting point): Seat of the Matsu County Government, with bike rental shops
2. → Around Nangan Airport (approx. 3 km): Witness the spectacular sight of planes making extremely low-altitude landings
3. → Beihai Tunnel (approx. 7 km): An underwater tunnel carved during wartime, explorable by bamboo raft
4. → Iron Fort (approx. 10 km): A bunker on an isolated rocky reef, cut off from land at high tide
5. → Niujiao Settlement (approx. 14 km): The best-preserved traditional Min-Dong ancient house settlement in Matsu
6. → Yuntai Mountain Summit (approx. 18 km, requires climbing): Panoramic view of Nangan; on clear days, Fujian on the mainland is visible across the strait
7. Return to Jieshou Village (approx. 20–25 km)

Main Cycling Routes on Beigan

Compared to Nangan, Beigan’s terrain is slightly gentler, but there are still many steep slopes. Beigan’s highlight is Qinbi Village—the most completely preserved Min-Dong stone house settlement in all of Taiwan, often called the “Eastern version of Mediterranean charm.”

Beigan Island Loop Route (approx. 18–22 km):

1. Tangqi Village (starting point): Administrative center of Beigan Township, with bike rentals
2. → Qinbi Village (approx. 5 km): Stone-built ancient houses terraced along the hillside, facing the harbor inlet, with picturesque scenery
3. → Bishan Summit (approx. 10 km): The highest point on Beigan, overlooking the harbor inlets where Matsu’s blue tears appear
4. → Qiaozi Fishing Village (approx. 14 km): A traditional fishing village where fishing nets and temples interweave
5. → Houwo Beach (approx. 18 km): Beigan’s most beautiful beach, with clear water and white sand
6. Return to Tangqi Village (approx. 22 km)

Blue Tears Viewing Routes

Matsu’s “Blue Tears” (Noctiluca scintillans, a bioluminescent marine algae) is the most popular natural wonder in recent years. Every year from April to June, after dark, waves crashing against the shore emit a blue fluorescence. Cycling at night is the most romantic way to view them:

• Nangan: Fu’ao Harbor breakwater, waters near Daqiu Island
• Beigan: Qinbi harbor inlet, Houwo Beach

Night riding precautions:

• Streetlights are extremely scarce in Matsu at night; a powerful front light and rear light are mandatory for night riding
• Inform your B&B host of your expected return time
• Do not ride alone at night; it is recommended to ride with at least one other person

Special Feature: Historical Sites

Matsu is the region in Taiwan where military history is best preserved. The following sites are closely integrated with cycling routes:

• Beihai Tunnel (Nangan): Excavated in 1968, a 700-meter granite waterway capable of sheltering 100 small boats
• Dahan Stronghold (Beigan): The only mountain-interior tunnel experience facility open to the public in Taiwan
• Donghai Tunnel (Beigan): A cluster of military tunnels connected to Dahan Stronghold
• Iron Fort (Nangan): The most iconic anti-communist bunker, built in the 1960s

Practical Tips

1. To reach Matsu, you can take the Tai-Ma Star passenger ferry (departing from Keelung, voyage approx. 8 hours) or fly (Taipei Songshan to Nangan, flight time 50 minutes)
2. E-bikes are an excellent choice for Matsu’s steep slopes; e-bike rentals are available in both Tangqi Village and Jieshou Village
3. Matsu kaoliang liquor is famous throughout Taiwan, but do not drink before cycling
4. A ferry connects Nangan and Beigan, with a voyage of approx. 15–20 minutes, and bicycles can be brought aboard
5. Matsu’s summer fog season (March–May) may affect flights, so keep your itinerary flexible

Conclusion

Cycling in Matsu is an experience of time travel. Those massive granite bunkers, tunnels carved deep into mountainsides, and stone house settlements built along slopes feel especially real at bicycle speed. Don’t rush, don’t skip stops—pause at every turn to gaze at that gray-blue East China Sea, and let Matsu’s unique historical atmosphere slowly seep into your cycling memories. Taiwan’s frontier holds the most profound stories.

Related Reading

• Cycling Taiwan’s Outlying Islands: Bicycle Travelogues of Penghu, Kinmen, and Matsu
• Island Cycling in Taiwan: Route Features of Penghu, Kinmen, and Green Island
• Penghu Bicycle Travel: Island Charm and Township Routes
• Kinmen Cycling Routes: A Bicycle Exploration Guide to Wartime Culture and Natural Landscapes