Chiayi Alishan Highway (Provincial Highway 18): A Climbing Challenge from the Plains to the Clouds

Introduction

Alishan Highway, Provincial Highway 18, climbs from Chiayi City all the way to Alishan, covering approximately 84 kilometers with an elevation gain of over 2,000 meters. It is one of Taiwan’s longest continuous climbs and one of its greatest elevation differentials on a single road. For climbers in Taiwan, completing Alishan is a major milestone—a local challenge comparable to international climbing races. This road not only tests physical endurance and mental fortitude but also offers a complete ecological experience, from tropical plains to high-mountain cloud forests, with distinctly different scenery at every elevation.

Route Segment Analysis

Alishan Highway can be divided into three main segments based on terrain and vegetation characteristics:

The Chiayi-to-Zhuqi segment serves as a warm-up, mostly flat; the real climbing begins at Zhuqi, with a continuous ascent to the Shizhuo tea region, where vast high-mountain tea plantation landscapes line the route. Above Shizhuo, you enter the high-mountain zone, where temperatures drop sharply and the tree species shift to precious conifers such as Taiwan red cypress and yellow cypress, offering spectacular and awe-inspiring scenery.

Key Resupply Points

Resupply points along Alishan Highway are relatively sparse, so planning ahead is essential:

• Zhuqi (approx. 15 km): Zhuqi’s town center has convenience stores and grocery shops—the last ample resupply stop before leaving the plains.
• Fenqihu (approx. 53 km): A renowned mountain town, famous nationwide for its Fenqihu lunchbox, at an elevation of 1,405 meters. It is the most important rest and resupply point on the climb. The wooden buildings and railway platform of Fenqihu Old Street are steeped in nostalgic charm—a stop for a meal is highly recommended.
• Shizhuo (approx. 55 km): A high-mountain tea region where tea shops offer hot and cold tea drinks—a great spot to replenish fluids and energy. Convenience stores can also be found here.
• Alishan (finish, approx. 84 km): Alishan offers full accommodation and dining facilities, making it the ideal place to rest after completing the ride.

Equipment and Training Recommendations

Tackling Alishan Highway requires thorough preparation:

• Gearing: The gradients on Alishan are long and sustained. A cassette with at least a 28T cog is strongly recommended; the middle and later sections feature 7–9% gradients lasting several kilometers, and a smaller cog will exhaust your muscles prematurely.
• Supplies: The full ride from Chiayi to Alishan takes at least 6–8 hours. Carry enough water (3 liters or more) and food (over 2,500 kcal) to avoid running out of energy in the mountains.
• Cold-weather layer: Temperatures on Alishan are roughly 15–18°C lower than in Chiayi. A lightweight down jacket or windproof outer layer is essential; above Shizhuo, temperatures may drop below 10°C.
• Prior training: To complete Alishan, a base of 150 km or more of riding per week is recommended, along with at least 2–3 mid-grade climbing sessions (gradients above 5%, sustained for 30 minutes or more) before departure.

Best Riding Seasons

• Autumn (October–December): Most recommended—pleasant temperatures, Alishan’s maple leaves begin to turn red, and visibility at the summit is clear.
• Spring (March–May): Yoshino cherry blossoms bloom across Alishan, painting the mountains in romantic pink, though spring brings more clouds and fog.
• Summer (July–August): Typhoon season requires caution, but mountain temperatures are cool and comfortable, ideal for escaping the heat.
• Winter (January–February): Coldest temperatures; frost and occasional snow may appear at the Alishan summit, so cold-weather gear is a must.

Safety Precautions

• Descent speed control: The descent on Alishan is continuous, and prolonged braking can overheat your brakes. Descend in stages, stopping every 15–20 minutes to let the brakes cool down.
• Rockfalls and road maintenance: Provincial Highway 18 occasionally experiences rockfalls in the mountain sections, especially after rain—extra caution is needed. Some sections have construction zones; watch for construction signage while riding.
• Notify others of your itinerary: There are occasional mobile signal dead zones on Alishan Highway. Be sure to inform family or friends of your ride plan before departing, and pre-mark emergency contact information.

Conclusion

The challenge of Alishan Highway is a rite of passage for road cycling enthusiasts in Taiwan. From the summer-night atmosphere of Chiayi City, to the mist-shrouded charm of Fenqihu, to the sacred tree forests at the Alishan summit, every one of these 84 kilometers is filled with discovery and surprise. After completing the ride, standing above the clouds on Alishan and gazing down at the Chianan Plain, that sense of accomplishment will become the most profound memory of your cycling career.

Related Reading

• Alishan Highway in Chiayi: The Complete Guide to the Long Climb from Zhuqi to Alishan
• Alishan Highway Climb in Chiayi: A Road Bike Challenge Amid Tea Plantations and Mountain Mist
• Alishan Highway Cycling Challenge: A Magnificent Climb Chronicle from Chiayi to Alishan
• Alishan Highway Bike Challenge: An Epic Climb from the Chiayi Plains to the Clouds