Taipei to Yilan: Choosing Between the Beiyi Highway and Provincial Highway 2

For cyclists, there are two very different ways to get from Taipei to Yilan: one crosses the mountains and heads straight for the Lanyang Plain via the Beiyi Highway (Provincial Highway 9); the other loops around the North Coast and heads south along the edge of the Pacific via Provincial Highway 2. The two routes aren’t far apart in distance, yet they offer completely different riding experiences. This article breaks down the features of both routes in detail to help you make the best choice for your needs.

Route One: The Beiyi Highway (Provincial Highway 9)

Basic Stats

• Start: Muzha (or Taipei City Hall)
• End: Yilan City
• Distance: Approximately 75–80 km
• Highest Point: The summit of the Beiyi Highway, about 900 m above sea level (the highest point of the old highway)
• Total Elevation Gain: Approximately 1,100 m
• Difficulty: Harder (with noticeable climbing)
• Estimated Time: 4–6 hours

Route Features

The Beiyi Highway is one of Taiwan’s oldest and most historic mountain-crossing highways. It climbs gradually from the Taipei Basin, crosses the tail end of the Xueshan mountain range, then descends steeply into the Yilan Plain — a classic mountain-crossing route that’s essentially “climb all the way up, then descend all the way down.”

Section-by-Section Analysis

Muzha → Pinglin (approx. 35 km, approx. 700 m gain)

After leaving Muzha and entering the hills, the gradient gradually increases. Shiding and Shenkeng are lively old-street settlements where you can restock supplies. Once you enter Pinglin Township, the lush green tea-country scenery is refreshing. Pinglin is the key midway resupply point on this route, with convenience stores and restaurants — it’s strongly recommended that you rest and refuel here.

Pinglin → Summit (approx. 15 km, approx. 350 m gain)

Past Pinglin begins the real climb to the summit, with gradients between 7–10%, the most challenging part of the whole route. However, there’s almost no heavy traffic along the way (since the Xueshan Tunnel diverts most of it), so the riding environment is relatively safe.

Summit → Yilan City (approx. 20 km, approx. 900 m descent)

Past the summit is a long, roughly 20 km descent, with a sweeping view of the Yilan Plain that’s genuinely breathtaking. The descent has wider lanes but many curves, so you’ll need to control your speed — especially on wet pavement, where extra caution is essential.

Highlights of the Beiyi Highway

• Pinglin Old Street: Taiwan’s famous tea town, home of Wenshan Bao Zhong tea
• The Beiyi Highway’s curves: Known as the “Nine Bends, Eighteen Turns,” a legendary stretch for many riders
• The sense of accomplishment on reaching Yilan: That moment when you crest the mountains and look out over the Lanyang Plain delivers an unmatched sense of achievement

Route Two: The North Coast’s Provincial Highway 2

Basic Stats

• Start: Tamsui (or Taipei City)
• End: Toucheng, Yilan
• Distance: Approximately 130–145 km
• Highest Point: Longdong Cape, about 100 m
• Total Elevation Gain: Approximately 800 m (mostly small rolling hills)
• Difficulty: Moderate (long distance but gentle gradients)
• Estimated Time: 6–9 hours

Route Features

Provincial Highway 2 runs east along Taiwan’s North Coast the whole way, finally joining Yilan at Toucheng. This route has almost no significant climbs, but it’s long, and the sea breeze along the way — especially headwinds — can be quite draining. Its biggest advantage is the rich scenery: nearly every few kilometers offers a coastal view worth stopping for.

Section-by-Section Analysis

Tamsui → Jinshan (approx. 30 km)

Following Provincial Highway 2 out of Tamsui, you pass through Shimen and Laomei, where you can take in the North Coast’s distinctive volcanic reef terrain. The Laomei Reef is a springtime-only sight, its rocks covered in green algae that look like a carpet has been laid over them. Jinshan’s town center has plenty of local snacks, with duck meat rice boxes being a local specialty.

Jinshan → Keelung → Ruifang (approx. 45 km)

The Keelung section runs through the city, with heavier traffic, so stay alert. Ruifang is the gateway to Jiufen and Jinguashi, where you can detour to experience the historic charm of this former gold-mining town.

Ruifang → Aodi → Toucheng (approx. 55 km)

Heading east from Ruifang brings you into the Northeast Coast, the most spectacular scenery of the entire route. Longdong Bay, Nanya Rock, and Fulong Beach are all famous landmarks. Fulong lunch boxes are a well-known treat along the way — it’s strongly recommended you stop here for lunch and resupply.

Highlights of the North Coast’s Provincial Highway 2

• Laomei Reef: The lush green reef in spring, a paradise for photographers
• Yehliu Geopark: Unusual rock formations like the Queen’s Head, a world-class geological attraction
• Jiufen Old Street: A nostalgic former mining town — it’s best to travel light here and explore on foot
• The Northeast Coast: Taiwan’s most stunning rocky coastline, with breathtaking views the whole way
• Fulong lunch box: A traveler favorite railway lunch box, representative of Taiwanese food culture

Comparing the Two Routes

How to Choose?

Choose the Beiyi Highway if you:

• Enjoy climbing challenges and crave the achievement of crossing a mountain range
• Have limited riding time and want to finish in a shorter distance
• Prefer a quiet mountain-forest atmosphere and want to avoid urban stretches

Choose Provincial Highway 2 if you:

• Love coastal scenery and want to take in the Pacific to the fullest while riding
• Have plenty of stamina and enjoy long-distance endurance riding
• Plan to stop at multiple sights along the way at a slower pace
• Don’t enjoy long, continuous climbs

An Advanced Option: There and Back

If you have two days, the perfect plan is to ride there one way and back the other: on day one, take the Beiyi Highway (climbing over the mountains) and spend the night in Yilan; on day two, take Provincial Highway 2 (coastal riding) back to Taipei. This way, you get to experience the best of both routes and fully enjoy Yilan’s local food and culture — the most recommended riding plan for a Taipei-Yilan round trip.

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