Jianshi Township Route: Mountain Challenge and Indigenous Culture Journey

In the mountainous region of northern Taiwan, there is a place with a poetic name—Jianshi Township. The name comes from a large rock shaped like a sharp stone in the upper reaches of the Naluo River, and the township’s terrain, much like its name, is rugged, varied, and full of jagged edges. Jianshi Township is the largest administrative district in Hsinchu County by area, with the vast majority of its land being mountainous. It is home to predominantly Atayal indigenous communities, boasting a rich tribal culture and magnificent natural landscapes.

For cycling enthusiasts, Jianshi Township offers a rare primitive mountain riding experience in northern Taiwan.

Route Overview

The main road into Jianshi Township is County Road 60 (Zhu 60), which winds up the Naluo River valley from Zhudong Township. Since the area is divided into “Front Mountain” and “Back Mountain,” riding plans can also be split into two segments.

Front Mountain Route: Zhudong → Naluo → Jianshi Township Office

• Distance: Approximately 25 km
• Elevation Gain: Approximately 800 m
• Highest Point: Approximately 900 m
• Difficulty: Moderate
• Highlights: River valley scenery, Naluo Community, Atayal Museum

Back Mountain Route: Jianshi Township Office → Xiuluan → Smangus Junction

• Distance: Approximately 35 km (60 km total when combined with the Front Mountain route)
• Elevation Gain: Approximately 1,000 m additional for the Back Mountain segment
• Highest Point: Smangus Junction at approximately 1,600 m
• Difficulty: Challenging (the Back Mountain section has steep gradients and complex road conditions)
• Highlights: Pristine forests, tribal culture, alpine waterfalls

Front Mountain Segment Details

Zhudong → Naluo (Approximately 18 km)

Starting from downtown Zhudong, head south on County Road 60. The road surface is smooth, and the initial gradient is gentle. Riding along the Naluo River, the water is crystal clear, the mountain walls on both banks are lush green, and occasional farmlands dot the landscape.

Naluo Community is an important hub on the Front Mountain route. Here you’ll find several restaurants and homestays offering Atayal specialty cuisine—grilled wild boar, millet wine, and bamboo tube rice are must-try local delicacies. Naluo Community itself is also a renowned art village, where many Atayal artists create their works. Tribal art blends seamlessly with mountain life, creating a unique atmosphere.

Naluo → Jianshi Township Office (Approximately 7 km)

After passing Naluo, the gradient gradually increases. Arriving at the Jianshi Township Office (near the Catholic Church) marks the end of the Front Mountain route. At an elevation of approximately 600 m, you can see the continuous mountain ranges in the distance on clear days. Jianshi Bridge spans the Naluo River and is a famous landmark, with deep and spectacular river valley views.

Back Mountain Segment Details (Advanced Route)

Jianshi Township Office → Xiuluan (Approximately 20 km)

The Back Mountain section is more primitive compared to the Front Mountain. The road alternates between wide and narrow stretches, with poorer road surface quality. Some sections are gravel roads, so it is recommended to use bikes with wider tires (25mm or above).

Xiuluan is an important gateway into the Back Mountain area. There is an indigenous checkpoint where you must present your ID card to proceed. Xiuluan Hot Spring is one of Taiwan’s rare bicarbonate springs, with pure water quality—an excellent choice for a soak after riding.

Xiuluan → Smangus Junction (Approximately 15 km)

This stretch is the most spectacular yet most demanding section of the Back Mountain. Gradients reach 8 to 12%, the road is narrow, and deep river valleys drop off right beside you. However, the pristine forest scenery along the way is breathtaking—giant trees, vines, and waterfalls interweave, as if you’ve entered another world.

Smangus is one of Taiwan’s most famous remote tribes, known as the “Tribal of God,” renowned for its old-growth giant tree groves. Due to its remote location, it was historically isolated from the outside world for a long time, only gaining electricity in 1995. The tribe has preserved a highly complete Atayal traditional culture. After cycling to the Smangus Junction, entering the tribe itself requires walking or taking a shuttle (roads within the tribe restrict general vehicle access).

Atayal Cultural Experience

The cycling experience in Jianshi Township is by no means just about climbing. The Atayal culture along the way is the most precious asset of this route:

Atayal Facial Tattoo Culture

The Atayal are known for their “facial tattoos”—for men, tattoos signify bravery in battle; for women, they signify skill in weaving. Although the modern practice of facial tattooing has gradually declined, this precious cultural mark can still be seen on the older generation of tribal members in Jianshi Township. Some homestay owners or restaurant operators are happy to share the cultural background behind this tradition, offering a rare opportunity for cultural exchange.

Atayal Cuisine

• Grilled Wild Boar: Marinated with salt and spices, then slow-grilled over charcoal; firm texture with a distinctive flavor
• Millet Wine: A traditional wine brewed from millet, sweet with a slight tang; an essential beverage for tribal banquets
• Bamboo Tube Rice: Glutinous rice stuffed into bamboo tubes and cooked, carrying a subtle bamboo aroma
• Wild Vegetable Dishes: Wild ginger flowers, mountain ferns, black nightshade, and other wild greens—fresh and healthy

Indigenous Handicrafts

The handicraft shops in Naluo Community and various tribes sell Atayal-style woven textiles, wood carvings, and glass beads—great places to pick up souvenirs.

Road Conditions and Precautions

• Road Conditions: The Front Mountain roads are in good condition; some Back Mountain sections have gravel or potholes, requiring caution
• Supplies: Shops are available in Naluo and Xiuluan, but supply points are scarce on the Back Mountain section
• Checkpoint: The Xiuluan checkpoint requires ID registration before entering the mountains
• Weather: Mountain weather in Jianshi Township is changeable; bring rain gear
• Mobile Signal: Signal is weak deep in the Back Mountain area; it is recommended to inform family of your itinerary

Best Seasons to Visit

• Spring (March to May): Peach and cherry blossoms bloom in the mountains; the scenery is at its finest
• Summer (June to August): Frequent rainy season; Back Mountain road conditions deteriorate, with mudslide risks to watch for
• Autumn/Winter (September to December): Pleasant temperatures, maple leaves turn red; this is the most stable riding season

The Jianshi Township route is one of the few in northern Taiwan where cyclists can simultaneously experience mountain challenges and indigenous culture. It is not just a test of physical endurance, but also a spiritual cleansing and cultural enlightenment.

Related Reading

• Jianshi Township Mountain Riding: A Cultural Ride Through Atayal Tribes in Hsinchu’s Mountains
• Jianshi Township Mountain Route: A Climbing Training Route Guide Through Indigenous Tribal Mountains
• Jianshi Township Mountain Bike Route: Off-Road Exploration Around Smangus
• Breathing at Bashan Mountain: Racing Myself Through the Atayal Forests