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Chiayi Alishan Highway: Provincial Highway 18, a Tea-Scented Climb from the Plains to 2,200 Meters

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Climbing from the Chiayi Plains into the Clouds

The Alishan Highway (Provincial Highway 18) starts from Chiayi City, passing through Chukou, Longmei, and Shizhuo as it climbs toward the Alishan Forest Recreation Area—roughly 77 kilometers in total length with about 2,200 meters of cumulative elevation gain. Its defining feature is the “complete elevation profile”—starting from nearly sea level and climbing all the way to over 2,200 meters, passing through betel nut palms, bamboo groves, tea plantations, and the sea-of-clouds belt along the way.

Segment Information

Segment Distance Cumulative Climb Elevation
Chiayi→Chukou 18 km ~300 m 30→400 m
Chukou→Longmei 17 km ~750 m 400→1,150 m
Longmei→Shizhuo 18 km ~650 m 1,150→1,800 m
Shizhuo→Alishan 24 km ~500 m 1,800→2,200 m

The Tea-Aroma Segment from Longmei to Shizhuo

This is the core production area for Alishan high-mountain tea. Tea terraces stack layer upon layer along the roadside, and a sea of clouds often forms in the early morning. The gradient is sustained but not extreme, making it ideal for grinding away at a steady heart rate—a great training ground for building long-climb endurance.

One-Day Summit Timeline and Pacing Plan

For a single-day ride covering 77 kilometers with 2,200 meters of climbing, the most common failure is “going out too hard in the early stages and blowing up after Longmei.” Here is the recommended timeline and heart-rate strategy:

Time Stop Cumulative Distance Pacing Strategy
06:00 Depart Chiayi 0 km Z2 warm-up; don’t chase others on the flats
07:30 Chukou (Tianchang Dijiu Bridge) 18 km Refuel; the climbing officially begins
10:00 Longmei 35 km Second refueling stop; the tea-aroma segment begins
12:30 Shizhuo 53 km Lunch; top up water (supplies get scarce beyond here)
15:30 Alishan Recreation Area 77 km Slowing at altitude is normal; finish with a steady cadence

Key mindset: Although Chiayi to Chukou is the warm-up stretch, don’t burn through your glycogen just because it’s gentle. The real endurance battle begins after Longmei—treating the tea-aroma segment as a “steady-heart-rate, slow-grind” long-climb workout is far more effective than forcing the pace.

Climate and Timing

The elevation change is dramatic—when it’s 30°C at the base, it may be only 15°C up top, so bring a warm layer. Dense fog often rolls in during the afternoon with poor visibility; be sure to start early, finish early, and keep your lights on.

Supplies

Chukou, Xiding, and Shizhuo are the main supply villages, with shops and tea houses. Supplies are scarce between Shizhuo and Alishan, so it’s best to top up before leaving.

Extensions

From Shizhuo, you can detour to Fenqihu (old street, bento boxes), or continue toward Tataka (this article won’t re-cover the Tataka segment), forming a multi-day high-mountain itinerary.

What’s most enchanting about the Alishan Highway is that with every gain in elevation, the smell of the air changes—from betel nut to bamboo leaves to tea. It turns out climbing isn’t just done with your legs; you remember a mountain with your nose too.

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