Eastern Coastal Section: Challenges and Safe Riding Guide for the Suhua Highway

Introduction

The Suhua Highway, Provincial Highway 9 from Su’ao to the southern end of Hualien, stretches approximately 118 kilometers. This road is etched into the memory of every island-circumnavigating cyclist, not only for its magnificence—sea cliffs, the deep blue Pacific, and tunnels carved into sheer rock faces—but also because it is the first true test of the entire journey. Only after riding through Suhua can you truly say you have entered the heart of the island tour.

The Terrain Features of Suhua Highway

The Suhua Highway is carved along the coastal cliffs on the easternmost side of the Central Mountain Range. For most of its length, the cliffs drop straight into the Pacific Ocean, with the road suspended in between, just wide enough for two vehicles to pass.

Main terrain sections:

Suhua Improvement vs. Old Suhua: Choices for Cyclists

In recent years, the “Suhua Improvement” (Provincial Highway 9 Suhua Highway Mountain Area Improvement Project) has gradually opened to traffic, providing a safer driving environment. However, many tunnels and freeway-style sections of the Suhua Improvement are not open to bicycles.

Options for cyclists:

• Ride the Old Suhua: The original Provincial Highway 9, retaining many old tunnels with spectacular scenery, but some sections have steep gradients and tunnels that are long and dark
• Ride parts of the Suhua Improvement: Check the latest announcements from the Directorate General of Highways to confirm which sections are open to bicycles; advance application is usually required
• Take the train to skip sections: Many first-time island tourers choose to take the train from Su’ao or Hualien. This is entirely reasonable and does not diminish the meaning of the tour

Safe Riding Through Tunnels

The tunnels of Suhua Highway are the sections requiring the most caution. Here are key points to note:

• Front and rear lights must be on at all times: Visibility inside tunnels is extremely low; even during the day, a flashing red rear light is needed
• Reflective vest or hi-vis clothing: Greatly increases visibility; it is recommended to put it on before entering Suhua
• Do not stop inside tunnels: After confirming no vehicles are approaching, pass through quickly; never stop midway through a tunnel
• Observe traffic flow before long tunnels: Wait for a gap at the tunnel entrance, and only enter after confirming no vehicles are approaching from either direction
• Maintain a straight riding line: Tunnel floors may have standing water or gravel; keep a steady course
• Keep your ears sharp: If wearing earphones, they must be removed before entering a tunnel

Supply Points and Mileage Planning

Supply points are scarce along Suhua Highway, making it one of the sections with the longest gaps between resupply stops on the entire island tour:

• Dong’ao: Has convenience stores where you can replenish food and water; be sure to stock up fully here
• Nan’ao: Has a gas station and small shops where you can replenish energy bars or drinks
• Heping: A cement factory industrial area with a few residential shops; unreliable
• Chongde: Near Hualien, supply points begin to reappear

It is recommended to carry at least 1.5 liters of water and 600–800 kcal of food from Nan’ao to avoid hypoglycemia before reaching Heping.

Weather and Time Planning

• Departure time: Depart from Su’ao no later than 7:00 AM, aiming to arrive in Hualien before 3:00 PM to avoid the afternoon strong winds and rockfall risk
• Do not ride in rain: The risk of rockfall on Suhua Highway rises significantly in rain or after typhoons; if in doubt, choose the train
• Weekend caution: On holidays, cycling groups concentrate and traffic in tunnel sections increases, requiring extra care
• Summer afternoon thunderstorms: If the forecast shows heavy afternoon thunderstorms, consider departing a day earlier or staying an extra night in Nan’ao

Practical Advice

• Inform family and friends of your itinerary: Signal on the Suhua section is intermittent; let family and friends know your expected arrival time in Hualien before departing
• Carry your ID at all times: Some rerouted sections have checkpoints where you must present your ID
• Don’t push yourself; take the train if tired: The TRA Tzu-Chiang Limited Express can carry bicycles (with a wheel bag, limited spaces); from Su’ao New Station to Hualien takes about 1.5 hours
• Solo riders should be extra cautious: If riding alone, team up with other cyclists when passing through tunnel sections

Conclusion

The grandeur of Suhua Highway cannot be fully described in words. That ethereal feeling of riding along the edge of the Pacific is one of the most precious memories of the island tour. With adequate preparation and respect for the road conditions, this stretch is not a forbidden zone but the most worthy cycling challenge in Taiwan. Ride through Suhua, and you have truly circled Taiwan.

Related Reading

• Suhua Highway Cycling Guide: A Complete Guide to Scenery, Safety, and Route Planning
• A Full Record of Riding Suhua Highway: Taiwan’s Most Stunning Coastal Road Experience
• The Majestic Ride of Suhua Highway: Cliffs, Sea Breeze, and the Unbelievable East Coast of Taiwan
• A Chronicle of Riding Suhua Highway: Cliff Scenery and Safety Precautions for Cycling