Chianan Plain Section: A Cultural and Culinary Cycling Journey from Tainan to Chiayi

Introduction

As the island-wide tour heads north from Kaohsiung into Tainan, riders’ eyes begin to shift from the road surface to the roadside—the sweeping eaves of Min-style temples, the forts left by the Dutch, the setting sun reflected in salt pans, and the beef soup shops that always have a line out the door. The stretch from Tainan to Chiayi is the core section of the Jianan Plain, roughly 80 to 100 kilometers in total. The terrain is flat, resupply points are plentiful, and it is the easiest section on the body and the richest in cultural density along the entire island loop.

Route Options: Provincial Highway 1 vs. Provincial Highway 17

Recommended Route: Start from Tainan City via Provincial Highway 1, then connect to Provincial Highway 17 after the Beimen Salt Fields to experience the coastal scenery, and rejoin Provincial Highway 1 at Budai to enter Chiayi City—a hybrid route that balances efficiency and scenery.

Tainan City Center: The Starting Point’s Maze

Tainan City Center is full of charm, but for cyclists it is also full of challenges—narrow roads, heavy scooter traffic, and a complex network of one-way streets. Suggestions:

• Use Google Maps’ bicycle navigation mode and select the “avoid main roads” option
• There are bike paths near Anping Fort; you can ride along the eco-park beside Taijiang Inner Sea
• On the narrow alleys near Chihkan Tower and the Confucius Temple, dismount and walk to experience Tainan’s old town at pedestrian scale

Must-Try Food Stops in Tainan

• Beef Soup: A unique Tainan morning market culture, freshest between 5–10 AM; have a bowl near Minzu Road or Hai’an Road before setting off
• Danzi Noodles: Originated at Du Hsiao Yueh, near Chihkan Tower
• Tofu Pudding: A traditional dessert near Yongle Market
• Milkfish Congee: A Tainan breakfast staple, rich in fat, great for refueling before a ride

Salt Fields and Coastal Wetlands Section

Heading north from Tainan’s Annan District into Beimen District, you enter one of Taiwan’s most important salt industry historical areas. Taiwan’s historical solar salt production was concentrated along the Jianan coast. Although the Beimen Salt Fields have ceased production, the salt pan wetlands have become a habitat for migratory birds and an ecological education park.

• Beimen Crystal Church (All Saints’ Chapel): Built from decommissioned salt containers, it has become a famous landmark and is perfect for photo ops
• Jingzaijiao Tile-paved Salt Fields: One of Taiwan’s oldest salt fields, with stunning colors when the setting sun reflects off them; arrive around 3–4 PM
• Sicao Dazhong Temple: You can take a bamboo raft for a mangrove ecology tour here (tickets sold separately; bicycles can be parked nearby)

Budai to Chiayi: The Oyster Culture of a Fishing Port

Budai Harbor is the most important fishing port in Chiayi County, famous for oyster farming. While passing through, you can sample freshly caught seafood at small restaurants near the fish market.

From Budai to Chiayi City, take Provincial Highway 17 north along the coast, then connect to the provincial highway, entering Chiayi City after about 30 kilometers.

Though Chiayi City is small, it has several must-visit spots for island-loop riders:

• In front of Chiayi Train Station: The starting point of the century-old Alishan Forestry Railway; the fountain roundabout in the front plaza is the symbol of Chiayi in old photographs
• Wenhua Road Night Market: In the evening, try chicken rice (Chiayi’s most famous everyday dish), fish head casserole, and sliced sausage with raw garlic
• Bike Paths: Chiayi City has a complete bike path network; you can ride a short stretch along the edge of Lantan Reservoir to enjoy the tranquility of the suburbs

Riding Characteristics of the Jianan Plain

• Wind: In summer, southwest winds blow in from the coast; riding Provincial Highway 17 may mean headwinds. Provincial Highway 1 has farmland windbreaks for shelter and is relatively comfortable
• Temperature: Summer temperatures on the Jianan Plain reach 35–38°C; it is recommended to depart at 6:00 AM, rest at a resupply point for 1–2 hours at noon, and continue after 3:00 PM
• Road Surface: Some sections of Provincial Highway 1 have patched pavement; on Provincial Highway 17, the fish-farm areas sometimes have sand and dirt on the road

Practical Tips

• Set aside half a day for Tainan City: The density of this city cannot be fully experienced while riding; if your schedule allows, stay two nights in Tainan and explore the old town on foot or by YouBike
• Bring cash: Small shops in coastal fishing villages mostly deal in cash; keep NT$500 in cash as backup
• Sun protection is paramount: The Jianan Plain has little shade, and summer UV is extremely strong; use sunscreen plus arm sleeves, and reapply every 2 hours
• Watch for farm machinery: During the farming seasons (rice transplanting in April–May, harvest in September–November), agricultural vehicles are common on the roads; slow down in advance

Conclusion

Riding the Jianan Plain section doesn’t rely on leg power—it relies on your eyes and your appetite. Every temple, every food stall, and every salt pan tells the story of Taiwan. This stretch lets you let go of the obsession with “making time” and learn the philosophy of “riding slow.” After completing the ride from Tainan to Chiayi, you’ll have accumulated not just mileage, but also a deeper layer of Taiwan’s cultural richness.

Related Reading

• Chiayi Budai to Yizhu Salt Fields Route: A Flat Ride Through Taiwan’s Salt Industry Culture
• Tainan Nanying Greenway Bike Route: A Cultural Ride Through Sugar Railway Heritage
• Taiwan West Coast Flat Riding: Rural Scenery in Changhua, Yunlin, and Chiayi
• Taiwan Island Loop Southern Section Route: A Tropical Riding Experience from Pingtung to Taitung