Provincial Highway 3 Inner Mountain Road: Cycling the North-South Mountain Route from Taipei to Pingtung

Introduction

Provincial Highway 3 (台3線), commonly known as the “Inner Mountain Road” (內山公路), is one of Taiwan’s longest provincial highways, winding north to south along the western foothills of the Central Mountain Range for approximately 450 km. Compared to the coastal Provincial Highway 1, Highway 3 passes through a different Taiwan: Hakka compounds (夥房), camphor-producing areas, sugar industry relics, and Atayal (泰雅族) tribal settlements. This road connects more than just geography — it is a longitudinal cross-section of Taiwan’s diverse ethnic cultures. For multi-day riders, Highway 3 is a route best experienced slowly and mindfully rather than rushed to completion.

Route Segment Overview

Highway 3 crosses 11 counties and cities from north to south, and can be divided into three major sections based on terrain characteristics:

The northern section’s Sanyi area features the well-known Sanyi Wood Sculpture Art District and the old railway of Shengxing Station (勝興車站). Miaoli’s tung blossoms (油桐花, April–May) fill this stretch with pink-and-white romance. In the central section, Zhuolan is famous for its peaches and grapes, Dongshi serves as the gateway to Taichung’s mountain towns, and Puli — the geographic center of Taiwan — is renowned for paper crafts and bamboo crafts. In the south, Meishan is the entrance to the Alishan Highway, and Qishan has a long-standing banana industry, providing a spectacular final stretch for riders on Highway 3.

Multi-Day Itinerary Suggestions

It is recommended to complete Highway 3 over 7–10 days, averaging 50–70 km per day, allowing ample time to enjoy the sights along the way:

• Days 1–2: Taipei Sanxia → Taoyuan Longtan → Hsinchu Guanxi (including old street exploration)
• Days 3–4: Guanxi → Miaoli Sanyi → Zhuolan (fruit shopping)
• Day 5: Zhuolan → Dongshi → Puli (Taiwan’s geographic center)
• Days 6–7: Puli → Zhushan → Caoling (earthquake heritage site)
• Days 8–9: Caoling → Meishan → Qishan
• Day 10: Qishan → Pingtung (finish)

Cultural Highlights Along the Way

The greatest appeal of cycling Highway 3 lies in the deep encounters with Taiwanese culture along the route:

• Hakka Settlements: The northern section runs almost entirely through Hakka townships, where you can sample authentic dishes such as leicha (擂茶, pounded tea), flat rice noodles (粄條), and Hakka stir-fry (客家小炒).
• Old Camphor Trees and Camphor History: Areas like Nanzhuang (南庄) and Shitan (獅潭) in Miaoli retain relics of the early camphor extraction industry.
• Tung Blossom Season (April–May): When the tung blossoms near Sanyi bloom, white flowers blanket the valleys, earning the nickname “Hakka Snow” (客家雪).
• 921 Earthquake Memorial: Caoling, in the central-southern section, hosts an earthquake memorial geopark documenting the landscape changes caused by the 1999 Taiwan earthquake.

Supplies and Accommodation

Towns along Highway 3 are spaced at a moderate density, so basic supplies are generally not a problem. It is recommended to stay in major town centers such as Miaoli City, Zhushan, and Meishan, all of which offer guesthouses and inns. Convenience stores (7-Eleven, FamilyMart) can be found in larger towns, while small mountain villages mainly rely on general stores. It is advisable to confirm the locations of supply points for each day’s route before setting out.

Conclusion

Highway 3 is more than just a road — it is a key to unlocking Taiwan’s history and culture. Around every bend, you might encounter a century-old temple; every side path may lead to a long-forgotten settlement. Slow down and let your feet feel every inch of Taiwan’s foothills — this journey will become one of your richest memories of Taiwan.

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