Cycling the Huadong Valley: Taiwan’s Most Spectacular Long-Distance Ride

The Huadong Valley (花東縱谷, Huadong Zonggu) is the long, narrow plain between the Central Mountain Range and the Coastal Mountain Range, stretching about 180 kilometers from Hualien (花蓮) all the way to Taitung (台東). Here you’ll find Taiwan’s most expansive rice paddies, its cleanest air, its warmest hospitality, and roads that are perfectly suited to cycle touring. Whether you ride along Provincial Highway 9 (台9線) or County Road 197 (197縣道), every kilometer brings a different view and a different story.

Route Overview

Main Route Options

Provincial Highway 9 (Hua-Dong Highway, 花東公路)

• Distance: Hualien → Taitung, approximately 170 km
• Road conditions: two-lane provincial highway, good surface quality
• Pros: shortest distance, convenient supply stops
• Cons: more large vehicles

County Road 193 (花蓮段替代路線, Hualien section alternative)

• Distance: Hualien → Yuli (玉里), approximately 110 km
• Road conditions: single-lane rural road, light traffic
• Pros: Taiwan’s longest county road, indigenous village atmosphere along the way
• Cons: some stretches are remote, few supply points

County Road 197 (台東段替代路線, Taitung section alternative)

• Distance: Chishang (池上) → Taitung, approximately 75 km
• Road conditions: narrow rural road, more undulating
• Pros: away from traffic, passes through Luye Highland (鹿野高台)
• Cons: more climbing, very few supply points

Elevation Profile Analysis

Provincial Highway 9 Main Line

The elevation of the Huadong Valley forms an arc that is “low at both ends, high in the middle”:

• Hualien City: approximately 15 meters
• Shoufeng (壽豐) (20 km): approximately 50 meters
• Fenglin (鳳林) (50 km): approximately 120 meters
• Guangfu (光復) (65 km): approximately 140 meters
• Ruisui (瑞穗) (85 km): approximately 100 meters
• Yuli (玉里) (110 km): approximately 90 meters
• Fuli (富里) (130 km): approximately 250 meters (near the valley’s highest point)
• Chishang (池上) (145 km): approximately 260 meters
• Guanshan (關山) (155 km): approximately 230 meters
• Luye (鹿野) (165 km): approximately 170 meters
• Taitung City (180 km): approximately 20 meters

Total elevation gain is about 800-1,000 meters (including rolling terrain), with an overall gentle gradient — most sections fall between 1-2%. Only the Fuli-to-Chishang segment has a noticeably steeper climb (around 3%), along with the final descent before Taitung.

Suggested Itinerary Planning

Three-Day Highlights Version (for experienced riders)

Day 1: Hualien → Ruisui (85 km)

Route: Hualien City → Jian (吉安) → Shoufeng → Fenglin → Guangfu → Ruisui

Morning: Depart from Hualien City, pass through Jian into Shoufeng. It’s recommended to turn onto County Road 193 at Shoufeng, passing Farglory Ocean Park area’s Liyoung Land (理想大地) and the dreamy Yunshanshui Misty Lake (雲山水夢幻湖) — this roughly 15 km stretch of country lanes is the most beautiful riding experience in the Hualien section.

Lunch suggestion: “Meihao Peanuts” (美好花生) or a Hakka restaurant in Fenglin. Fenglin is a Hakka town known for its distinctive Hakka flat rice noodles (粄條) and peanut tofu.

Afternoon: Pass Guangfu Sugar Factory (光復糖廠, worth a stop for ice cream) on the way to Ruisui.

Lodging recommendation: The Ruisui hot spring area — soaking in a hot spring is the best way to recover after a full day of riding.

Day 2: Ruisui → Chishang (60 km)

Route: Ruisui → Yuli → Fuli → Chishang

Morning: Depart from Ruisui and ride along the Xiuguluan River (秀姑巒溪) to Yuli. Yuli marks the midpoint of the valley and is famous for Yuli noodles and stinky tofu — a good spot to stop for a leisurely brunch.

Afternoon: The Yuli-to-Fuli segment is the most climb-heavy stretch of the whole trip, with elevation rising gradually from 90 to 250 meters. After passing the junction for Liushidan Mountain (六十石山), continue south as golden rice paddies unfold on both sides.

Upon reaching Chishang, ride out in the evening to Bolang Avenue (伯朗大道, “Paradise Road”), and experience the “no utility poles” pristine pastoral scenery in front of the Jinchengwu Tree (金城武樹). This is the single most iconic image of the Huadong Valley.

Lodging recommendation: A Chishang guesthouse or the Bliss Resort (日暉度假酒店).

Day 3: Chishang → Taitung (55 km)

Route: Chishang → Guanshan → Luye → Taitung

Morning: On the Chishang-to-Guanshan segment, you can ride the Guanshan Ring Bike Path (關山環鎮自行車道, a 12 km loop) — Taiwan’s first ring-town bikeway — with charming scenery of rice paddies and irrigation canals along the way.

Luye Highland: If you have energy to spare, detour up to Luye Highland (鹿野高台, about 120 meters of climbing). The International Hot Air Balloon Festival is held here every summer. Even outside the festival season, the view over the valley from the highland makes the climb worthwhile.

Afternoon: The ride from Luye to Taitung is mostly downhill, making for an easy arrival at the finish.

Five-Day Leisurely Version (recommended for beginners and in-depth touring)

Food Guide

The Huadong Valley is Taiwan’s rice bowl, and its rice quality is the best in the country. Here are the must-try foods along the route:

Practical Information

Transportation

Getting there:

• Take the Taiwan Railway to Hualien Station (bicycles can be brought along; a bicycle ticket must be purchased)
• Bicycles can be checked in the train’s baggage car

Getting back:

• Return from Taitung by Taiwan Railway or the Puyuma Express (advance reservation required)
• Fly from Taitung Airport to Taipei (some flights allow bicycle check-in)

Weather Notes

• Best seasons: October-December (golden rice ears, cool weather) and January-March (canola flower season)
• Avoid: the typhoon season of June-September — although scenery is most spectacular on clear days, afternoon thunderstorms are frequent and typhoon risk is high
• Wind direction: winter winds are predominantly northerly, so riding from Hualien to Taitung is a tailwind; the reverse is true in summer

Gear Recommendations

• Bike: either a road bike or a touring bike works; tires of 28C or wider are recommended to handle loose road surfaces
• Bags: a rear rack with panniers is recommended — far more comfortable than carrying a backpack
• Repair tools: 2 spare tubes, a pump, a multi-tool, and a quick chain link
• Sun protection: sunlight in the valley is intense, so sunscreen, arm sleeves, and a sun hat are essential

Conclusion

Cycling the Huadong Valley is a feast for all five senses: before your eyes, the majestic ridgeline of the Central Mountain Range and endless emerald rice paddies; in your ears, the rustle of wind through the rice waves; in your nose, the mingled scent of earth and rice; on your tongue, the sweet, chewy taste of Chishang rice; and across your whole body, the rhythm of sunshine, breeze, and freedom. Ride here, and you’ll understand why some call it: “The Huadong Valley is Taiwan’s last unspoiled land.”

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