Kaohsiung Cycling Routes: The Southern Taiwan Flavor of Qishan, Meinong, and Maolin

Most people think of Kaohsiung as a port city and an industrial city, but its mountain areas are actually a treasure trove for cycling in southern Taiwan. From the banana farming culture of Qishan (旗山), to the Hakka tobacco-barn settlements of Meinong (美濃), to the Rukai culture and purple butterfly valley of Maolin (茂林), the Kaohsiung hills offer the richest cultural cycling experience in southern Taiwan.

This article introduces three curated routes that can be ridden individually or linked together, suitable for short trips or a holiday day-return itinerary.

Route One: Qishan Old Street and the Banana Road (Qimei Highway)

Basic Information

Qishan: The Hometown of Taiwan Bananas

Qishan (旗山) was once Taiwan’s main banana-producing region, exporting large quantities to Japan during the Japanese colonial era, which brought prosperity to the town. The wooden former train station building (now preserved as the Qishan Living Culture Park) is a precious relic from that period.

Must-visit spots:

• Qishan Old Street: Well-preserved arcade shophouses from the Japanese colonial era, with distinctive stone arch designs
• Qishan Tianhou Temple: The spiritual center of the town, with the temple square reflecting local daily life
• Banana Museum (Qishan Farmers’ Association): Learn about the history of Taiwan’s banana industry
• Yuemei Community: The winding terrain of Qishan Creek, with farmland waterwheel scenery

The Banana Road (Qimei Highway, County Road 184)

County Road 184, running from Qishan toward Meinong, passes through stretches of continuous banana farms — one of the few areas in Taiwan still cultivating bananas on a large scale. The best time to ride is September to November, when the orchards are at their most abundant.

Route Two: Meinong Hakka Cultural Ride

Basic Information

Meinong: The Best-Preserved Hakka Culture Town in Taiwan

Meinong (美濃) ranks among the best in Taiwan for preservation of Hakka culture. The following spots are must-visits on this ride:

Tobacco Barn Clusters:
Taiwan once grew large quantities of tobacco for the tobacco industry, and Meinong was a major production area. Drying tobacco leaves required a special type of building — the “tobacco barn” (菸樓), a brick structure with high ventilation windows. Meinong still has many tobacco barns remaining from the Japanese colonial era, an important relic of Taiwan’s agricultural culture.

Meinong Folk Village and Hakka Cultural Museum:
Displays Hakka farming tools, traditional clothing, music, and other cultural elements.

Meinong Paper Umbrellas:
A traditional oil-paper umbrella craft — Meinong is Taiwan’s most important production center for paper umbrellas.

Yellow Butterfly Valley:
Every year from May to August, large numbers of yellow butterflies (Eurema species) gather here, forming a spectacular scene of fluttering yellow wings. You can cycle to the entrance and then walk into the valley to view them.

Meinong Specialty Foods

Route Three: Maolin Purple Butterfly Valley Ride (Winter Only)

Basic Information

Maolin: Taiwan’s Most Spectacular Butterfly Reserve

Maolin (茂林) National Scenic Area is an important overwintering habitat for Taiwan’s purple crow butterflies. Every year from late autumn to the following spring, millions of purple crow butterflies fly in from across Taiwan to overwinter in the Maolin valley, creating the spectacular scene known as “butterfly rain.”

Other highlights of Maolin:

• Rukai Culture: Maolin is an important settlement of the Rukai people, where you can visit traditional slate-house architecture
• Maolin Canyon: A canyon formed by a tributary of the Laonong River, suitable for stream tracing or walking to view
• Duona Hot Springs: One of the few wild hot springs in southern Taiwan — a soak after riding is the most refreshing way to finish

Route Challenges

Some sections of Provincial Highway 27 have steep gradients, especially after entering the mountains toward Maolin, where the grade can reach 7–9%. However, the road surface condition is good and stable throughout.

Suggested Two-Day Itinerary Linking the Three Routes

Day 1:
Kaohsiung city → Qishan (approx. 40km) → Meinong (approx. 15km)
Accommodation: A Meinong homestay (Hakka farm-experience homestays recommended)

Day 2:
Meinong → Liugui (approx. 25km) → Maolin (approx. 30km) → return to Liugui and take a bus back to Kaohsiung

How to Get There

• From Kaohsiung, take the Taiwan Railway to Qishan Station (now the Qishan Bus Terminal), or take a bus to Qishan
• Qishan and Meinong have bicycle rental stations where you can rent a bike locally and start riding
• Maolin requires driving or cycling there yourself, as public transportation service is limited

Conclusion

Qishan, Meinong, and Maolin each have their own story: the rise and fall of the banana industry, the resilience of Hakka settlers, and the mountain wisdom of the Rukai people. Cycling through this land is not just physical training — it is a journey to understand the history and culture of southern Taiwan.

With an open mind and a light travel style, let the mountain winds and sunshine of southern Taiwan lead you into another side of Taiwan.

Related Reading

• Kaohsiung Qishan-Meinong Cycling: An Easy Pedaling Route Through Plains and Farm Villages
• Kaohsiung Qishan Banana Road: A Village Ride Through the Hometown of Taiwan Bananas
• Kaohsiung Qishan-Meinong Route: A Flat Long-Distance Ride Guide Through Southern Taiwan Hakka Country
• Kaohsiung Qishan to Jiaxian: An Easy Ride and Supply Guide Along the Laonong River Valley