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Nine-Day Island Tour: The Complete 900 km Taiwan Cycling Circumnavigation Guide

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Nine-Day Island Circuit: A Taiwanese Cyclist's Rite of Passage

Circumnavigating the island is at the top of every Taiwanese cyclist's dream list. Pedaling the roughly 900–1,000 kilometers around Taiwan under your own power is a comprehensive test of physical endurance, willpower, and a spirit of adventure. The nine-day island circuit is the classic arrangement, covering about 100 kilometers per day—enough to enjoy the scenery along the way without feeling too rushed. This complete guide will help you plan a perfect island tour.

Route Overview

Direction: Clockwise (Taipei → Yilan → Hualien → Taitung → Pingtung → Kaohsiung → Tainan → Taichung → Taipei)
Total Distance: Approximately 940 km
Total Elevation Gain: Approximately 5,500 meters
Difficulty Rating: ★★★☆☆ (Moderate)
Daily Average: Approximately 105 km

Detailed Daily Itinerary

Day 1: Taipei → Yilan (Approximately 90 km)

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Departing from Taipei, follow the Xindian River Riverside Bikeway to Xindian, then take the Beiyi Highway (Provincial Highway 9) or its alternative route to Yilan. The Beiyi Highway is about 58 kilometers long, with its highest point at Shiding, approximately 535 meters above sea level. The climb spans about 25 kilometers, followed by a 33-kilometer descent. The gradient is gentle but relentless, serving as an initial test of endurance on the first day of the circuit. After descending from Beiyi, you enter the Yilan Plain, with flat terrain all the way to Yilan City. It's recommended to stay overnight in Yilan City and enjoy the local snacks and hot springs.

Day 2: Yilan → Hualien (Approximately 100 km)

This is the most debated day of the entire circuit. Safety concerns on the Suhua Highway lead many riders to skip this section by taking the train. If you decide to ride it, it's recommended to take the old Suhua Highway section and pass through in the early morning when traffic is light. The cliffside ocean views on the Suhua Highway are truly spectacular, but safety should always be the top priority. When riding, be sure to wear a reflective vest, turn on front and rear lights, and maintain communication with your companions. If you choose to take the train, the ride from Su'ao to Xincheng takes about 2 hours, and the time saved can be used to rest in Hualien or ride out to Taroko Gorge for sightseeing.

Day 3: Hualien → Yuli (Approximately 120 km)

Heading south along Provincial Highway 9 through the East Rift Valley, this is one of the most beautiful sections of the entire circuit. The Central Mountain Range is on your left, the Coastal Mountain Range on your right, and endless rice paddies and rapeseed fields stretch out between them. Passing through Fenglin, Guangfu, Ruisui, and on to Yuli, the terrain is flat with slight undulations. The Hakka towns and indigenous villages along the way each have their own character. Ruisui's hot springs and fresh milk, as well as Guangfu's sugar factory ice cream, are well worth a stop. Today's distance is longer, but the terrain is flat, so it won't be too taxing if you pace yourself well.

Day 4: Yuli → Taitung (Approximately 100 km)

Continue south along the East Rift Valley, passing through Chishang and Guanshan to Taitung. Chishang's Brown Boulevard is a must-visit spot on the island circuit; riding down the straight road flanked by golden rice fields is one of Taiwan's most iconic cycling images. From Guanshan to Taitung, you have two options: take the valley route through Beinan to Taitung City, or take Provincial Highway 23 over the Coastal Mountain Range to Donghe, then Provincial Highway 11 to Taitung. The former is flat, while the latter has climbs but offers spectacular ocean views. Upon arriving in Taitung, don't forget to visit the Zhengqi Road Night Market for rice noodle soup (mi tai mu) and sugar apples.

Day 5: Taitung → Fenggang (Approximately 105 km)

From Taitung, take Provincial Highway 9 through Taimali and Dawu to Fenggang. This section has the most climbing of the entire island circuit. The climb from Dawu to Shouka (Taiwan's southernmost cyclist rest stop, at approximately 460 meters above sea level) is about 12 kilometers with a 3–4% gradient. After cresting Shouka, it's a thrilling descent into Fenggang. The Pacific Ocean views along the way are magnificent, especially the coastline near Duoliang Station. Fenggang marks the western end of the South Link Highway, and accommodation options are limited, so you might consider continuing on to Hengchun or Checheng.

Day 6: Fenggang → Kaohsiung (Approximately 90 km)

From Fenggang, head north along Provincial Highway 1, passing through Fangliao and Chaozhou to Kaohsiung. This section is mostly flat plains, but if you're traveling during the fall wind season (October to April), you may encounter strong crosswinds between Fenggang and Fangliao. Once you enter Kaohsiung City, you can use the city's bike path system to reach the Love River and Pier-2 Art Center. Kaohsiung marks the starting point of the second half of the circuit, and it's recommended to take a proper rest day here (if time allows) to enjoy Liuhe Night Market and the seafood in Cijin.

Day 7: Kaohsiung → Tainan (Approximately 80 km)

The ride from Kaohsiung to Tainan is the easiest day of the entire circuit, with flat terrain throughout. You can take either Provincial Highway 1 or Provincial Highway 17; the latter hugs the coast and offers better scenery. Tainan is the culinary capital of Taiwan, so upon arrival, be sure to visit Guohua Street or the area near Anping Fort to sample beef soup, shrimp rice, coffin bread, and a variety of other local snacks. Today's distance is short, so you can sleep in a bit later, or arrive in Tainan early and take your time exploring this historic city.

Day 8: Tainan → Taichung (Approximately 120 km)

Today's distance is longer, heading north from Tainan along Provincial Highway 1 through Chiayi and Yunlin to Taichung. The western plain section is relatively monotonous, with scenery dominated by farmland and small towns. In Chiayi, you can enjoy a bowl of turkey rice, and in Changhua, try the meatballs. Upon entering Taichung, follow Taiwan Boulevard into the city center; the National Taichung Theater and Fengjia Night Market are great evening destinations. This day may be the toughest physically and mentally, as the western plain offers less scenic variety and fatigue has accumulated by this point.

Day 9: Taichung → Taipei (Approximately 160 km)

The final day is the longest. From Taichung, take Provincial Highway 1 through Miaoli, Hsinchu, and Taoyuan back to Taipei. If 160 kilometers feels too long, you can take the train back to Taipei from Hsinchu or Taoyuan. If you choose to ride the entire way, it's recommended to set off at 4–5 AM to make progress during the cooler morning hours with lighter traffic. The moment Taipei 101 comes into view, the sense of accomplishment from nine days of circumnavigating the island will wash over you instantly.

Pre-Trip Preparation Checklist

Bike: Full inspection including brake pads, tires, drivetrain, and chain
Spares: Spare inner tubes x2, pump, multi-tool, chain quick link
Clothing: Cycling jerseys x3, cycling shorts x2, windbreaker, arm and leg warmers, sandals (for rest time)
Electronics: Cycle computer/GPS, power banks x2, charging cables
Body Care: Sunscreen, chamois cream, pain relief patches, personal medication

Accommodation Recommendations

Every city along the island circuit route offers a wide range of accommodation options, from hostels to business hotels. It's recommended to book at least a week in advance, especially on weekends and in the Hualien–Taitung area. Many cyclist-friendly B&Bs provide bike storage, repair tools, and washing machines; you can search for "cyclist-friendly lodging" before you set off. For solo travelers, the accommodation budget is approximately NT$600–1,500 per night.

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