Cycling the Suhua Highway: Taiwan’s Most Breathtaking Coastal Road Experience

The Suhua Highway (Provincial Highway 9) is the main artery connecting Suao in Yilan County to Hualien City along Taiwan’s northeast coast, spanning roughly 118 kilometers. Carved into the cliffs above the Pacific Ocean, the road runs between near-vertical sea cliffs on one side and the deep blue Pacific on the other, earning its reputation as one of Taiwan’s most breathtaking coastal roads. For cyclists, riding the Suhua Highway is both a pilgrimage and a test of endurance.

Route Overview

Impact of the Suhua Highway Improvement Project on Cycling

Since 2020, sections of the Suhua Improvement (Suhuagai) mountain-line project have opened, and some sections of the original Suhua Highway have been closed or restricted. Current restrictions for cyclists include:

• Gufeng Tunnel: 7.9 km long, closed to bicycles — riders must arrange shuttle transport
• Guanyin Tunnel: 7.1 km long, closed to bicycles — shuttle required
• Dongao to Nanao section: The old road remains open and rideable, offering the most scenic stretch

Important reminder: Before setting out, always confirm the latest status of the Suhua Improvement route and reserve bicycle shuttle service via the Directorate General of Highways website.

Segment-by-Segment Riding Guide

Segment 1: Suao → Dongao (0–24 km)

Leaving Suao, the first major challenge is Nanao Ridge, with gradients of roughly 5–8%, one of the most concentrated climbs on the whole route. After cresting the ridge, riders are rewarded with a stunning view over the turquoise waters of Dongao Bay.

• Key sights: Dongao Bay (celebrated as one of Taiwan’s most beautiful hidden bays)
• Supplies: Dongao Village has a convenience store, the first reliable resupply point after departure

Segment 2: Dongao → Nanao (24–35 km)

This stretch covers the most scenic old section of the Suhua Highway, where the old Route 9 hugs the cliff edge, offering an unrivaled view of the Pacific.

• Key sights: Nanao Bay, the mouth of the Beixi River
• Caution: The road is narrow with heavy truck traffic — stay to the right

Segment 3: Nanao → Heren (Shuttle Section)

This section requires the Suhua Improvement shuttle service, with specific arrangements depending on current policy. It’s recommended to rest and resupply in Nanao while waiting for the shuttle.

Segment 4: Heren → Chongde → Hualien (Approx. 25 km)

After the shuttle drop-off, continue along the old Suhua Highway into the northern edge of Taroko National Park, passing Chongde Beach and the southern section of Qingshui Cliff before finally reaching Hualien City.

• Key sights: Qingshui Cliff (a limestone cliff rising 800 meters vertically from the sea)
• Suggested pace: Ride slowly to fully take in the scenery

Qingshui Cliff: Slow Down Here

Qingshui Cliff is one of Taiwan’s most magnificent natural wonders. Looking down from the road, you’ll see sheer sea cliffs dropping tens or even hundreds of meters, with the sound of crashing waves clearly audible from the roadway. It’s best to stop at the designated viewpoints to take photos rather than sightseeing while riding — the road shoulder is extremely limited.

Safety Notes

The real danger of the Suhua Highway isn’t the gradient — it’s the following:

1. Heavy truck traffic: Gravel trucks and trailers frequent this narrow road; move immediately to the far right when you hear a vehicle approaching
2. Rockfall risk: Rockfall risk rises sharply after typhoons or heavy rain; avoid riding within 24 hours after rainfall
3. Poor tunnel visibility: The old Suhua Highway has several short tunnels; a front light is essential, and a flashing mode is recommended for visibility
4. Strong sea winds: Some sections have strong crosswinds, making lightweight deep-section carbon wheels harder to control
5. Intermittent phone signal: Mountain and cliffside sections may have no signal — download offline maps before departure

Season and Weather

Reflections After Riding the Suhua Highway

The feeling after completing the Suhua Highway is complicated. You won’t just remember how steep a climb was or how long a stretch felt — you’ll remember the Pacific Ocean suddenly appearing around a bend, the sound of waves crashing against the cliff base, and the sea wind roaring past your ears.

The beauty of the Suhua Highway isn’t laid out in front of you to admire — it unfolds gradually, pedal stroke by pedal stroke. You have to feel the terrain with your own body to understand why Taiwanese cyclists call this one of the most beautiful roads in the country.

Suggestions for After Arriving in Hualien

• Hualien City has several bike-friendly accommodations — ask if parking space is available
• The next day, consider riding into Taroko Gorge (about 22 km round trip), which requires a park entry permit
• You can ship your bicycle back to Taipei via the Taiwan Railway’s Tzu-Chiang Express (advance booking and shipping confirmation required)

Conclusion

The Suhua Highway represents Taiwan’s rawest, most magnificent landscape and stands as a showcase of the island’s geological wonders. Ride it once, and you’ll understand why Taiwan’s road cycling holds a place on the world stage. Bring thorough preparation and a cautious mindset, and go experience that breathtaking stretch of Pacific coastline.

Related Reading

• 蘇花公路單車挑戰：從蘇澳到花蓮的海岸公路騎乘完全指南
• 蘇花公路的壯闊騎行：懸崖、海風與不可思議的台灣東海岸
• 蘇花公路單車壯遊：太平洋斷崖上的極致騎行體驗
• 東部海岸段：蘇花公路的挑戰與安全騎行指南