A 30-Day Cycling Tour of Taiwan: A Beginner’s Round-the-Island Journey

For many people in Taiwan, the words “cycling around the island” represent a distant dream. Last year, I decided to stop letting it remain just a dream, even though I was a beginner who had been cycling for less than a year.

This is the real record of my 30-day round-the-island journey, including all the beauty, the pain, and the unexpected surprises.

Preparation Before Departure (Or: I Thought I Was Ready)

Physical Preparation

Six months before the trip, I started cycling seriously. My longest practice ride was a round trip from Taipei to Taoyuan, about 100 kilometers. I thought that would be enough.

What’s Actually Needed: The ability to ride 60-80 kilometers per day, sustained over multiple consecutive days.

Gear Preparation

My luggage list at departure (way too much!):

• Rear rack + two large pannier bags
• Tent, sleeping bag, sleeping pad
• Three sets of cycling kit (too many)
• 5 sets of casual clothes (too many)
• Bike repair tool kit
• First aid kit
• A bunch of charging devices

What’s Actually Needed: Go lightweight! Beginners always bring too much.

Route Planning

Counterclockwise loop around the island (North → West → South → East → North)

• Planned 60-80 kilometers per day
• Originally planned for 21 days, later changed to 30 days

Week One: The Sweetness and Hardship of the Western Plains

Day 1: Taipei → Taoyuan (65 km)

Set off excitedly; everything went smoothly. It wasn’t until nearing Taoyuan that I realized city riding is completely different from rural riding—traffic volume, air quality, and mental stress are all exhausting.

Takeaway: Don’t ride too far on the first day; let your body adapt.

Day 3: Hsinchu → Miaoli (80 km)

Encountered my first long climb and finally understood why everyone says Taiwan’s western coastline is “not flat.” Climbing into a headwind consumed far more energy than expected.

Takeaway: Taiwan’s “flat roads” actually have a lot of rolling terrain; underestimating the climbing is a common beginner mistake.

Day 5: Taichung → Changhua (50 km)

My knee started hurting for the first time. Poor riding posture caused iliotibial band inflammation, so I had to take an extra rest day in Changhua.

Lesson Learned: I should have gotten a Bike Fitting before departure; it would have saved me a lot of pain later.

Week Two: Trials Under the Southern Sun

Day 8-10: Tainan and Kaohsiung (55, 60, and 45 km respectively)

The heat in the south was shocking. I’d set off at 7 AM and by 10 AM it was already too hot to continue. I adjusted my strategy to start early (5:30 AM), complete the main distance before 11 AM, and find a place for a midday nap.

Essential Gear: Quality sunglasses and sunscreen—these two items are lifesavers in southern Taiwan.

Day 12: Pingtung → Hengchun (75 km)

Entering the Kenting Peninsula, the scenery began to become stunning. The first time I saw the crystal-clear water of South Bay, all my fatigue was forgotten.

Unexpected Surprise: An elderly couple in their 70s was also cycling around the island, and they gave me the biggest encouragement when we met.

Week Three: Paradise and Hell in the East

Day 15-16: Taitung Coastline (130 km total)

The beauty of the eastern coast exceeded all expectations. The Taitung coastal route offered magnificent views of the Pacific Ocean the entire way; I almost forgot I was cycling.

Recommendation: You must allocate the most time to the east. Slow down and absorb the scenery.

Day 18-19: Huadong Valley (160 km total)

The combination of farmland and mountains in the valley is Taiwan’s most beautiful inland scenery. The colors of the rice paddies, the golden yellow of the rapeseed flowers, the blue-purple of the distant mountains—every few kilometers was a painting.

Day 20: Suhua Highway

This was the most challenging section of the entire trip. The tunnels and coastal road heading north offered breathtaking scenery, but also demanded intense concentration.

Safety Reminder: Always check the weather and the opening status of the Suhua Highway. Never ride before a typhoon or heavy rain.

Week Four: The Road Home

Day 22-24: Yilan’s Gentleness

Yilan is known for its cloudy and rainy weather, but the food here soothed my weary body and mind. Ox tongue pastry, braised pork, duck jerky… every small town had different surprises.

Unexpected Discovery: Yilan has many hidden cycling routes worth a dedicated visit next time.

Day 27: North Coast (Jinshan → Keelung)

The finish line was in sight, but the winds of the North Coast made the final days especially tough. Strong crosswinds turned riding into a battle against nature.

Day 30: Back in Taipei

Riding into Taipei city, on the same roads I started from, but with a completely different feeling.

Trip Statistics

Item	Value
Total Days	30 days
Total Distance	Approximately 1,250 km
Actual Riding Days	26 days (4 rest days)
Total Elevation Gain	Approximately 12,800 meters
Average Daily Distance	Approximately 48 km
Longest Single Day	95 km (Yilan section)

Expense Record

Item	Amount (NT$)
Accommodation (30 nights)	Approximately 15,000
Food	Approximately 18,000
Ride Fuel/Snacks	Approximately 3,500
Bike Repairs	Approximately 800
Miscellaneous	Approximately 2,000
Total	Approximately 39,300

The Most Important Takeaways

About Cycling

Every experienced rider I met on the road taught me more than any book. Tips they shared:

• Don’t push through knee pain; you must rest
• When facing a headwind, just “enjoy the intensity training”
• Refuel proactively; don’t wait until you’re hungry to eat

About Taiwan

Cycling around the island showed me a Taiwan you can’t see on TV or the internet. The roadside bike rest stops, the strangers who proactively came to help, the small-town mothers who handed over homemade food… these are the truest faces of Taiwan.

About Myself

In the final days, I realized I had changed. I was no longer anxious, no longer keeping score, and could find peace in waiting. This is perhaps the most precious gift the 30-day trip gave me.

For Friends Who Want to Cycle Around the Island

Don’t wait until you feel ready to set off—you will never feel completely ready.

Bring enough humility, enough curiosity, and enough flexibility, and Taiwan will take good care of you on your journey.

Related Reading

• My First Cycling Trip Around Taiwan: A Moving 12-Day Journey from Taipei
• 10-Day Taiwan Cycling Tour Reflections: A 1,000 km Self-Challenge Journey
• 9-Day Taiwan Cycling Tour Itinerary: Complete Daily Distances and Accommodation Suggestions
• Cycling Around Taiwan for Beginners: How Many Days, Gear Checklist, and Fitness Requirements