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Overseas Cycling Pilgrimage: Notes on Conquering Italy's Dolomites

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Overseas Cycling Pilgrimage: Notes on Conquering Italy’s Dolomites

“If heaven has bike lanes, they must look like the Dolomites.”

The first time I saw this quote in a magazine, I made up my mind: I had to ride there at least once in my life. Last summer, I flew to Italy alone with a folding bike case and fulfilled this dream.

The Dolomites: A Cyclist’s Holy Land

The Dolomites are located in northeastern Italy, part of the Alps, and were listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2009. The rock peaks, meadows, and winding mountain roads form one of the most spectacular cycling landscapes in the world.

Famous riding routes:

  • Sella Ronda (loop of 4 mountain passes)
  • Passo Fedaia
  • Passo dello Stelvio
  • Tre Cime di Lavaredo (Three Peaks route)

Pre-Trip Preparation: The Challenge of Flying with a Bike

Bringing a bicycle from Taiwan to Italy is a challenge in itself.

Choosing an Airline

Most airlines accept bicycles for checked baggage, but the rules vary. I ultimately chose Turkish Airlines, as their excess baggage fees for bicycles were relatively reasonable.

Packing tool checklist:

  • Hard-shell bike case (borrowed a friend’s SCICON)
  • Foam protective material
  • Straps and zip ties
  • Quick-release fork mount

Bringing Your Own Bike vs. Renting in Italy

Both options have pros and cons:

Bringing Your Own Bike Local Rental
Cost Shipping fee approx. NT$5,000-8,000 (round trip) €60-120 per day
Familiarity Your own bike is most comfortable Takes time to adapt
Fit Already fitted May not fit properly
Risk Risk of luggage damage Responsibility before return

I chose to bring my own bike and was glad I did—riding your own bike is crucial on long mountain routes.

Sella Ronda: The Grand Loop of Four Passes

Sella Ronda is the most famous cycling route in the Dolomites, connecting four passes:

  • Passo Gardena (2,121m)
  • Passo Sella (2,244m)
  • Passo Pordoi (2,239m)
  • Passo Campolongo (1,875m)

Route data:

  • Total distance: approx. 60 km
  • Total elevation gain: approx. 1,700 m
  • Suggested time: 5-8 hours

Day 1: Departing from Cortina

I chose Cortina d’Ampezzo as my base. This town is known as the host of the 2026 Winter Olympics and is also the tourism hub of the Dolomites.

Departure time: 7:00 AM
Weather: Clear, 16°C

The mornings in the Dolomites are astonishingly quiet. The rock peaks glow in an orange-red hue under the morning light—a unique color of limestone under specific lighting, which locals call “Enrosadira” (rosy glow).

First Pass: Passo Gardena

Starting the climb from the town of Corvara, it’s a 9 km ascent with an average gradient of about 7%.

Riding impression: The quality of Italian mountain roads far exceeded my expectations—smooth pavement, elegantly designed curves, and open views. Every corner is a painting.

There’s a small restaurant at the top of the pass, and an Italian Espresso is a must. Europeans really never skip a coffee no matter where they are.

Cost: One Espresso, €1.2

Second Pass: Passo Sella

This is the most spectacular section of the entire Sella Ronda. The Sella Pass sits between massive rock walls, and the peaks of the Sella Group stand like a fortress wall, commanding awe.

Difficulty: Moderate, approx. 7-8 km of climbing, with some sections at 10%+ gradient.

Most memorable moment: At the top of the pass, an Italian elderly man asked where I was from. Upon hearing Taiwan, he nodded and said “Taiwan! Giant!” with a thumbs up and a smile. Cycling is a universal language that transcends words.

Third Pass: Passo Pordoi

Passo Pordoi is one of the highest rideable passes in the Dolomites and a legendary stage in both the Tour de France and the Giro d’Italia.

Descent skills are crucial here—it’s a sustained downhill, and if you don’t manage your brakes well, your rims could overheat.

Tip: During descents, periodically release the brakes for a few seconds to avoid overheating.

Return Leg: Passo Campolongo

The final pass is relatively easier, with gentler gradients, offering views of the Dolomites from different angles.

By the time I returned to Corvara, the sky was just beginning to turn orange, and the peaks glowed with the rosy light once again—a perfect ending.

Total time for Sella Ronda: 6 hours 30 minutes (including multiple photo stops)

Practical Travel Information

Transportation

  • Nearest airports: Venice Treviso Airport (direct flights from Taiwan) or Milan Malpensa Airport
  • Car rental: It’s recommended to rent a car to reach the Dolomites, as public transportation is not convenient
  • Base options: Cortina, Corvara, and Selva are all excellent bases

Accommodation

The Rifugio (mountain huts) in the Dolomites offer a unique experience. Wooden interiors, traditional South Tyrolean cuisine, and a friendly atmosphere.

Recommended Rifugios:

  • Rifugio Forcella Nuvolau (spectacular views)
  • Rifugio Passo Sella (at the top of the pass)

Cost Estimate

Item Cost (€)
Rifugio accommodation (per night, incl. breakfast) €60-90
Restaurant lunch €15-25
Coffee/snacks €3-8
Bike repair (if needed) €20-50

Best Time to Go

  • Best: Mid-June to mid-September
  • Avoid: October to May (passes may be closed due to snow)
  • Note: July-August has the most tourists, and roads may be crowded

What the Dolomites Taught Me

After riding the Dolomites, Taiwan’s mountain roads look different to me. Not because Taiwan isn’t beautiful, but because I’ve learned to appreciate mountain roads with a new perspective—every terrain has its own language, and every mountain road has its own character.

Cycling is a way of traveling that lets you perceive space at the human pace, rather than just passing through.

Dolomites, I will be back.

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