Taiwan Mountain Highway Guide: Alternate Central Cross-Island Routes from Nantou to Taitung

The Central Cross-Island Highway (Provincial Highway 8, 台8線) has been closed for extended periods since 2022 due to earthquakes, landslides, and other factors, leaving many cyclists who want to cross central Taiwan’s mountains without their usual option.

But central Taiwan’s mountain routes are far from limited to the Central Cross-Island Highway. Several alternate routes are equally spectacular, and some sections are even more magnificent than the original.

Current Status of the Central Cross-Island Highway (2024)

Current conditions on Provincial Highway 8 (Central Cross-Island Highway):

• Guguan (谷關) to Lishan (梨山): Closed long-term (damaged by typhoons and earthquakes)
• Lishan to Taroko (太魯閣): Partially open (depending on road conditions)
• Taichung end (before Guguan): Normally open

Latest information: Please check the Directorate General of Highways’ latest announcements before departure, as road conditions can change at any time.

Alternate Route One: Southern Cross-Island Highway, Eastern Section (Provincial Highway 20)

Current status: The western section of the Southern Cross-Island Highway (Kaohsiung end) is partially closed, but the eastern section (Taitung to Haiduan) remains open.

Route Information

Start: Taitung City
End: Guanshan (關山), Taitung County
Distance: Approximately 60 km
Elevation gain: Approximately 1,500 m
Difficulty: Medium-high

Section Breakdown

Taitung → Chishang (池上, 35 km):
The Taitung Longitudinal Valley section, with flat rice paddy scenery. Chishang’s “Sky Mirror” viewing platform (where the rice paddies reflect like a mirror in autumn) is a famous photo spot.

Chishang → Haiduan (海端, 20 km):
The route begins entering the mountains, following the Laonong River (荖濃溪) upstream. The terrain shifts from plains to canyon, and the views become increasingly spectacular.

Near Haiduan:
This is the start of the eastern section of the Southern Cross-Island Highway. Road conditions further west need to be confirmed. In recent years, some sections have partially reopened (east of Meilan/梅蘭).

Unique Sights of the Eastern Section

Xinwulyu River (新武呂溪):
The Xinwulyu River along the Taitung side of the Southern Cross-Island Highway is one of the few mountain streams in Taiwan that has retained its pristine state. From certain angles, the clear water takes on a jade-green hue reminiscent of an NHK nature documentary.

Wuli-lai (霧裡來):
The Wuli-lai Bunun (布農族) indigenous community near Haiduan is a cultural highlight of the eastern section.

Alternate Route Two: Northern Cross-Island Highway plus Provincial Highway 7A (Taiwan’s Best Central Cross-Island Alternative)

This is currently the most popular “Central Cross-Island alternative route” among cyclists, allowing riders to cross Taiwan from Yilan to Taoyuan or Taichung.

Full Route

Route A (Yilan → Taichung):
Su-ao, Yilan → Provincial Highway 7A (Mingchih, Jianqing) → Cilan (棲蘭) → Provincial Highway 7 (Northern Cross-Island Highway) → Taoyuan → Provincial Highway 3 → Taichung

Route B (Yilan → Taoyuan):
Yuanshan, Yilan → Provincial Highway 7A → Cilan → Fuxing (復興) → Taoyuan

Highlights of Provincial Highway 7A

Along the Jianqing Historic Trail (見晴懷古步道):
The section of Provincial Highway 7A near Jianqing passes majestic Taiwan Hinoki cypress and red cypress trees, with especially clean and fresh air.

Mingchih (明池):
A high-mountain lake that displays different colors through the seasons. By the time riders reach this point, they’ve usually already climbed a considerable elevation, making a rest by the lake the ideal midpoint reward.

Cilan Forest Recreation Area (棲蘭森林遊樂區):
Cilan is home to the “Presidential Trees” (precious trees named after successive presidents), well worth a stop when passing through.

Alternate Route Three: Provincial Highway 21 (New Central Cross-Island Highway)

Provincial Highway 21 is known as the “New Central Cross-Island Highway” and is currently the only road route that can completely cross central Taiwan.

Route Information

Start: Fengyuan, Taichung
End: Alishan, Chiayi (or continuing to the Yushan Trailhead)
Distance: Approximately 120 km (Fengyuan to Tataka)
Difficulty: Very high (elevation gain exceeds 2,300 m)

Route Segments

Fengyuan → Puli (埔里, 60 km):
The initial section of Provincial Highway 21 crosses Nantou County’s agricultural belt. Puli is an important resupply point along the way and is also famous for its butterflies and flower cultivation.

Puli → Qingjing (清境, 32 km):
This section begins climbing sharply. Qingjing Farm (elevation 1,750 m) is the most important resupply point, with convenience stores, restaurants, and guesthouses offering full services.

Qingjing → Wujie (武界) → Aowanda (奧萬大) junction (28 km):
Continuing south from Qingjing, Provincial Highway 21 turns into more remote mountain terrain. This section sees fewer cyclists and offers pristine scenery.

Tataka (塔塔加, elevation 2,600 m):
The endpoint of Provincial Highway 21 (the highest point reachable by regular road), this is the entrance to Yushan National Park and ranks among the highest points on Taiwan’s road network.

Unique Experiences on Provincial Highway 21

Wujie Hot Springs (武界溫泉):
Hot springs at the Wujie indigenous community along the route make for an excellent place to relax after riding.

Aowanda National Forest Recreation Area (奧萬大國家森林遊樂區):
A spur route off Provincial Highway 21 leads to Aowanda, where Taiwan’s maple trees turn red in autumn, making it one of the most famous spots in Taiwan for maple-leaf viewing.

Which Route Should You Choose?

Safety Guidelines

These are all mountain roads, so pay attention to:

1. Weather checks: Mountain weather changes rapidly — confirm the forecast and road conditions before departure
2. Resupply planning: Some sections have few resupply points, so plan ahead
3. Cell signal: Mountain areas have unstable cell signal, so offline maps are essential
4. Large vehicles: Mountain roads see more large vehicles — keep to the right and watch sightlines on curves
5. Rockfall risk: After or during rain, rockfall risk increases in the mountains, so carefully assess whether to depart

Conclusion

While the closure of the Central Cross-Island Highway has reduced the options for crossing central Taiwan, it has also led people to rediscover alternate routes that were previously overlooked.

The pristine canyons of the Southern Cross-Island’s eastern section, the forest scenery of the Northern Cross-Island plus Highway 7A, and the extreme climbing of the New Central Cross-Island Highway — each route has its own character.

Pick one, set out, and let central Taiwan’s mountain roads show you why they’re worth exploring.

Related Reading

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• 台灣自行車長途路線：南橫公路的山岳騎行探索
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