Taiwan Cycling Long-Distance Routes: Exploring the Mountain Roads of the Southern Cross-Island Highway

The Southern Cross-Island Highway (Provincial Highway 20) is one of Taiwan’s three east-west cross-island highways, and currently the most difficult to reach and the most precious of them all—the devastation caused by Typhoon Morakot in 2009 kept it closed for years, and although sections have reopened in recent years, days of full passage remain rare. It is precisely this elusive quality that makes the Southern Cross-Island Highway a dream route for cycling in Taiwan.

The Geography of the Southern Cross-Island Highway

What is the Southern Cross-Island Highway?

The Southern Cross-Island Highway (Provincial Highway 20) spans 185 kilometers in total, starting from Jiasian District in Kaohsiung City on the western side, crossing the Central Mountain Range, and arriving at Haiduan Township in Taitung County on the eastern side:

Highest point of the Central Mountain Range: Lidao to Tianchi section, elevation 2,722 meters

The Natural Landscape of the Southern Cross-Island Highway

The areas traversed by the Southern Cross-Island Highway include:

• Jiasian to Baolai: The Nanzihsian River basin, low-elevation temperate mountain terrain
• Taoyuan to Meishan: Gradually entering high mountain gorges with dramatic elevation changes
• Meishan to Tianchi: High-elevation desolate landscapes, arrow bamboo grasslands
• Tianchi to Xiangyang: Taiwan’s pristine high-mountain forest ecosystems
• Lidao to Guanshan: Steep descent on the eastern side, Amis cultural area

The Essential Western Section Route: Jiasian to Tianchi

Complete Route Information

Segment-by-Segment Description

Jiasian→Baolai (approx. 25 km, 700m elevation gain)

• Difficulty: Moderate
• Features: Along the Nanzihsian River, wide river valley, hot spring area
• Supplies: Baolai has shops, restaurants, and hot spring hotels
• Highlights: The winding scenery of the Laonong River

Baolai→Taoyuan (approx. 15 km, 400m elevation gain)

• Difficulty: Moderate
• Features: The river valley gradually narrows, the terrain becomes steeper
• Supplies: Taoyuan has convenience stores and local snacks
• Highlights: Taoyuan Tribe (Bunun settlement)

Taoyuan→Meishankou (approx. 20 km, 900m elevation gain)

• Difficulty: High
• Features: The most spectacular canyon section of the Southern Cross-Island Highway, continuous climbing
• Supplies: Meishankou has a management station and small stalls (uncertain, recommended to bring enough)
• Highlights: Magnificent views of cliffs and deep gorges, multiple tunnels

Meishankou→Tianchi (approx. 15 km, 600m elevation gain)

• Difficulty: High
• Features: High-elevation grassland and arrow bamboo forest landscapes
• Supplies: Tianchi Lodge (meals available with reserved accommodation)
• Highlights: Sunrise at Tianchi Lodge (requires arriving the day before)

Road Condition Notes (Important)

The Uncertainty of Southern Cross-Island Highway Access

The Southern Cross-Island Highway has suffered multiple typhoon and disaster damages over the years. Access conditions must be confirmed before departure:

Ways to check:

• Directorate General of Highways official website (road.motc.gov.tw)
• Provincial Highway 20 management station phone line
• Latest updates from local cycling communities

Recent conditions (2023-2025):
The western section is usually open under conditional access during certain periods (outside of heavy rain events), but the eastern section may still have closed segments.

Backup plan:
If the full route is not possible, riding only from Jiasian to Taoyuan or Meishankou still offers spectacular scenery.

Physical and Technical Requirements

Minimum Recommended Prerequisites

Special Notes on the Southern Cross-Island Descents

The descent sections of the Southern Cross-Island Highway are extremely long and winding:

• Rim overheating issue: Carbon rim brake users need to pay special attention—long descents can cause rim overheating and blowouts
• Recommendation: Use disc brakes, or stop periodically during long descents to let the rims cool down
• Brake adjustment: Check brake fluid (disc brakes) or brake pad condition before descending

Supply and Accommodation Planning

Supply Points on the Western Section

Recommended to carry: At least 2 liters of water and enough food for the Meishankou to Tianchi stretch (supplies at Meishankou are uncertain)

Tianchi Lodge: The Hidden Gem Accommodation of the Southern Cross-Island Highway

Tianchi Lodge is a legendary accommodation spot on the Southern Cross-Island Highway:

• Location: 2,280 meters above sea level
• Facilities: Basic lodging (bunk beds), restaurant
• Reservation: Must be booked in advance (very popular)
• Feature: Morning sea of clouds and sunrise views

Tips for the Tianchi sunrise:

• After staying at Tianchi Lodge, get up between 4:30-5:00 AM
• Walk approximately 10-15 minutes to the viewpoint
• If you’re lucky, you can witness a “sunrise above the clouds”—the sea of clouds spreads out before you, and sunlight rises from behind the Central Mountain Range

Best Time to Ride

Conclusion

The experience of riding the Southern Cross-Island Highway is one of the rarest treasures in Taiwan’s cycling landscape—precisely because of its inaccessibility, the uncertainty of road conditions, and the magnificent mountains it traverses, every cyclist who sets foot on this road feels a sense of completing some kind of “sacred journey.”

Before departing, be sure to confirm current road conditions. And on the day the Southern Cross-Island Highway opens its gates to you, don’t hesitate—it may be the most worthwhile ride of your life.

Related Reading

• Southern Cross-Island Highway Cycling Challenge: An Epic Ride Across the Central Mountain Range
• Southern Cross-Island Highway Reopens: Cycling Conditions After Provincial Highway 20 Resumed Traffic
• Southern Cross-Island Highway Cycling Journal: Taiwan’s Most Magnificent Cross-Island Highway Riding Experience
• First Ride After the Southern Cross-Island Reopening: A Firsthand Account of the Historic Provincial Highway 20 Resumption