Keelung North Coast Cycling: Coastal Scenery of Yehliu, Jinshan, and Shimen

Introduction

Heading west from Keelung, Provincial Highway 2 unfolds along the North Coast. This road is the section of Taiwan’s highway map closest to the Pacific—on the right, weathered rock formations and azure waters; on the left, mountain slopes, fields, and villages. The entire route feels like riding in the crevice between land and sea. Yehliu’s strange rocks, Jinshan Old Street, Shimen Cave, Baishawan Beach… The density of attractions along the North Coast is second to none among Taiwan’s highway cycling routes.

Route Overview

Keelung: A Harbor City Tour Before Departure

Keelung is Taiwan’s most important fishing port city. The early-morning Kandingzai Fish Market begins trading before dawn, with a lively and authentic atmosphere. If departing from Taipei by TRA train to Keelung, take a detour around Zhongzheng Park beside Keelung Harbor after leaving the station. From its elevated vantage point, you can overlook the comings and goings of ships in the harbor—an excellent warm-up before the official ride begins.

Keelung Miaokou Night Market is one of the most famous night markets in Taiwan. If you arrange an overnight stay in Keelung, you can sample local specialties such as ding bian cuo, tempura, and shaved ice pops at night, replenishing energy for tomorrow’s departure.

Yehliu Geopark: A Cycling Encounter with Extraordinary Rock Formations

Yehliu Geopark is Taiwan’s most renowned coastal geological landscape area. Its peculiar wind-eroded rock formations—the Queen’s Head, Fairy’s Shoe, and Candle Rock—attract pilgrims from around the world. It is recommended to arrive before opening time (8:00 AM) to avoid peak crowds and enjoy this feast of strange rocks gifted to Taiwan by the earth in the most comfortable way.

After cycling past Yehliu, there is a stretch along the Tiaoshi Coast where the road surface is occasionally bumpy due to falling reef debris. Maintain a moderate speed and stay alert to road conditions.

Jinshan: Old Street Aromas and Coastal Memories

Jinshan Old Street is famous for “Jinshan duck meat”—the ducks raised here use a unique method, yielding tender meat that makes it a designated culinary destination for gourmands across Taiwan. The Jinshan Old Street beside it preserves stone-arched shops in Qing Dynasty style, selling specialty souvenirs such as Jinshan sweet potatoes and duck-egg crispy pastries.

Jinshan is also the most important mid-route resupply point on the North Coast, with convenience stores and restaurants in abundance. It is recommended to stop here for lunch and rest, then continue toward Shimen in the afternoon.

Shimen Cave and Fugui Cape Lighthouse: The Period at the End of the North Coast

Shimen gets its name from a massive rock cave between the mountain and the sea (commonly called Shimen Cave). The cave is about ten meters in diameter, and the sight of waves surging through it is spectacular. In the afternoon, light shines into the cave from the west, creating exquisite light-and-shadow effects—the most photogenic natural attraction on the North Coast.

Fugui Cape Lighthouse is the northernmost lighthouse on the main island of Taiwan and one of the earliest built in Taiwan (constructed in 1897). Perched at the tip of the cape, surrounded by basalt gravel coastline, it is grand yet solitary, embodying the maritime character of Taiwan’s northernmost point.

Baishawan and Tamsui: A Beautiful Finish to the Ride

Baishawan is the longest beach on the North Coast. In summer, it is a surfing mecca for Taipei residents; in winter, the waves turn fierce, offering first-rate surf breaks for enthusiasts. The seafood restaurants beside the beach buzz with activity in the evening—ending a long ride with a seafood dinner is the most authentic North Coast finish-line ritual.

Continuing south from Baishawan, the rural fields of Sanzhi and the expansive views of the Tamsui River mouth serve as the emotional closing of the entire North Coast ride. Take the MRT back to Taipei from Tamsui Old Street, bringing this coastal journey to a perfect conclusion.

Practical Tips

Road Condition Notes

• Strong winds are frequent on the North Coast. During the winter northeast monsoon season (November to March), headwind sections are physically demanding. It is recommended to ride westbound (Keelung → Tamsui) to keep the wind mostly at your back.
• Some sections of the road between Yehliu and Shimen are damaged due to erosion from damp reef rock, and there are more construction vehicles on holidays.

Resupply Points

• Ample resupply is available at the Yehliu Geopark entrance, Jinshan Old Street, Shimen town center, and Baishawan.

Return Transportation

• Tamsui MRT Station allows folding bikes; full-size road bikes can be taken on Bus 1830 (with bike carriage) back to Taipei.

Conclusion

The North Coast cycling route is an up-close dialogue with Taiwan’s maritime character. Yehliu’s rock formations inspire awe at the power of geology, Jinshan’s Old Street makes you cherish the warmth of human connection, and the Fugui Cape Lighthouse invites you to gaze upon the solemnity of solitude. From Keelung to Tamsui, what you ride is not just seventy-three kilometers of highway, but a complete narrative of life along Taiwan’s northern coast.

Related Reading

• North Coast Cycling Routes: Coastal Riding from Tamsui to Keelung
• Taiwan’s Most Beautiful Coastal Cycling Route: Riding the North Coast from Keelung to Yilan
• Taiwan Cycling Around the Island, Northern Section: Scenery and Challenges from the North Coast to Yilan
• 5 North Coast Riding Options: Complete Comparison of North Line 2, Danjin, Binhai, and Gongliao Routes