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Counterclockwise vs. Clockwise Island Tours: A Complete Comparison of Wind, Elevation, and Traffic Flow

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Counterclockwise vs. Clockwise Island Tour: A Complete Comparison of Wind, Elevation, and Traffic Flow

Introduction

Most first-time island tourers choose “clockwise” (from Taipei heading southwest, then north along the east coast), but more and more experienced riders are opting for “counterclockwise” (from Taipei heading east, down the Suhua Highway through Hualien and Taitung, then looping back west). Neither direction is absolutely superior, but depending on the season and individual conditions, the choice can make your island tour dramatically easier or harder.

Clockwise vs. Counterclockwise: Six-Point Comparison

Comparison Item Clockwise (West→South→East→North) Counterclockwise (East→South→West→North)
Autumn/Winter Wind Tailwind (northeast monsoon assists on descents) Headwind (headwind at the northeast corner)
Spring/Summer Wind Somewhat headwind (southwest wind against you on the west coast) Somewhat tailwind
Suhua Highway Section Final day (when fitness is at its worst) Days 1–2 (when fitness is at its best)
South Link Section Days 5–6 Days 7–8
West Coast Traffic Southbound (traffic flows in the same direction) Northbound (more oncoming traffic on some sections)
Climb Difficulty Shouka climbed from the west side (gentler) Shouka climbed from the east side (steeper)

Wind Direction: The Season Determines Which Direction Is Easier

Taiwan’s monsoon system is very regular:

  • October to March of the following year: The northeast monsoon dominates, blowing from the northeast toward the southwest. For clockwise riders, the west coast southbound section (Taipei→Kaohsiung) is largely a tailwind or crosswind; but counterclockwise riders face strong northeast winds on the initial Taipei→Yilan→Su’ao stretch, fighting the greatest wind resistance at the very point when their energy is most abundant.

  • April to September: The southwest monsoon or no dominant wind direction prevails, and the difference between the two directions is smaller. Summer heat is a shared challenge for both directions.

Conclusion: For a winter (October to February) island tour, choose clockwise—the wind is on your side; for spring/summer (April to September), the difference between the two directions is minimal.

Timing Your Fitness for the Suhua Highway Section

The Suhua Highway is the most challenging section of an island tour, and the key question is “what condition are you in when you face it.”

  • Clockwise: The Suhua Highway typically falls on days 8–9 (the last one to two days). By then, your body has already ridden 700 to 900 kilometers, and fatigue is at its peak. Riding the Suhua in this state—with both mental and physical energy at their lowest—is a higher-risk choice.

  • Counterclockwise: The Suhua Highway falls on days 1–2 (just after departure). Your fitness is at its best, motivation is strongest, and your mind is sharpest—this is the optimal state for riding the Suhua. Many experienced riders who have ridden the Suhua choose counterclockwise precisely for this reason.

Conclusion: If the Suhua Highway is the section you worry about most, choose counterclockwise and face it in your best condition.

Shouka Climb: Elevation Difference Between the East and West Sides

The Shouka Pass, the high point of the South Link Highway, offers different climbing difficulty depending on which side you ascend:

  • West side (Fenggang→Shouka): Approximately 18 km in total length with an average gradient of about 2.5%. The gradient is relatively even—long but not too steep. This is the Shouka that clockwise riders face.

  • East side (Taitung Taimali→Shouka): Approximately 15 km in total length, but with several 5–7% steep sections in the middle, making it feel more strenuous overall than the west side. This is the Shouka that counterclockwise riders face.

Conclusion: If the Shouka climb makes you nervous, choose clockwise and take the gentler west-side version.

Directional Differences in Road Shoulders and Traffic Safety

The shoulder arrangements on Taiwan’s provincial highways give cyclists slightly different levels of safety depending on direction:

  • The shoulder markings on western provincial highways (Highway 1, Highway 61) are primarily suited for the “southbound” direction
  • The shoulders on eastern Highway 9 are mostly wider, with little difference between the two directions
  • However, in the Kaohsiung urban section, counterclockwise (northbound) riders need more cautious lane judgment during peak traffic hours

Which Direction Suits You Better

  • First-time island tour, departing in winter: Choose clockwise. Friendlier winds, and you pass the Suhua with ample energy (taking the TRA train to skip the Suhua is also an option)
  • Has Suhua riding experience, departing in spring/summer: Counterclockwise gives you a sharper state of mind to face the hardest section
  • Riders seeking efficiency: Counterclockwise lets you get through all the difficult sections in the first two days when your strength is at its peak, leaving the second half of the trip relatively relaxed
  • Prefer a psychological rhythm of hard-to-easy: Counterclockwise
  • Prefer a psychological rhythm of easy-to-hard: Clockwise

Practical Tips

  • Regardless of direction, the choice between the Taipei-to-Tamsui section (Highway 2 coastal route or Highway 1 inland route) has little impact on the winds ahead
  • If you’re touring in a small self-organized group, keep a unified direction but allow individual pace differences, and agree to meet at the same accommodation in the evening
  • Two island tours: do clockwise the first time to savor the gradual build-up of the western plains, then counterclockwise the second time to experience the stunning opening of Hualien and Taitung

Conclusion

There is no standard answer to the direction debate, but the process of thinking through this question helps you clarify your departure time, physical condition, and psychological preferences. In the end, whichever direction you choose, this island of Taiwan is ready to give you an unforgettable lap of memories.

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