Hualien–Taitung Cycling Challenge: A Two-Day, One-Night Ride Through the East Rift Valley

Introduction

Hualien and Taitung hold a special place in the hearts of people in Taiwan—it’s the place that naturally comes to mind when you feel tired and need a breather. From Hualien to Taitung, Provincial Highway 11 and Provincial Highway 9 lay out the two faces of this land in clear detail: on one side, the Pacific Ocean; on the other, the rift valley.

I chose the two-day, one-night version: Day 1 through the rift valley (Provincial Highway 9), Day 2 along the coast (Provincial Highway 11), with an overnight stop in Yuli. The total distance is about 340 kilometers—a manageable intensity for serious riders, but for an intermediate amateur like me, it requires giving about 80 percent of my physical capacity.

Detailed Route Plan

The two days total about 340 kilometers with 2,000 meters of elevation gain, averaging 170km per day. This intensity is achievable for those with a foundation in weekend long rides, but it requires good pacing awareness.

Day 1: The Agricultural Aesthetics of the Rift Valley

Setting off from Hualien Station at six in the morning, the sky was just brightening and the morning mist had yet to fully dissipate. The section of Provincial Highway 9 through Hualien City requires navigating quite a few traffic junctions, so staying alert is essential—but once you pass Guangfu heading south, the road suddenly opens up.

The Rhythm of Riding the Rift Valley:

The challenge of the rift valley section isn’t the gradient—it’s the monotony. The straight road stretches through rice paddies, with mountain ranges facing each other in the distance. This sense of openness is beautiful at first, but after three or four hours of riding, the lack of visual variation starts to make the mind wander.

My approach:

• Set “small segment goals”: ride from one town to the next rather than staring at the total distance
• Stop 10–15 minutes at each rest point to give both eyes and mind a chance to reset
• Occasionally veer off the main road onto small farm lanes in the valley, where the scenery is more detailed and the sense of exploration is greater

Must-Visit: Ruisui Hot Springs and Ruisui Fresh Milk:

I reached Ruisui around one in the afternoon. This area is famous for its bicarbonate hot springs and locally produced farm fresh milk. I stopped at a roadside shop, drank a bottle of freshly shaken milk, and ate a local mochi—replenishing both my energy and my spirits.

Day 2: The Majestic Impact of the Coastline

Departing from Yuli on the second day, I first headed south to connect with Provincial Highway 11, then followed the east coast northward back to Hualien. The advantage of this direction is that the most beautiful section of Provincial Highway 11 (from Changbin to Shitiping) is reached during the best morning light.

Signature Sections of Provincial Highway 11:

• Changbin Section: The road hugs the coastline tightly—cliffs on the left, the Pacific Ocean on the right. This is the section with the most expansive views
• Shitiping: Unique sea-eroded rock formations worth getting off the bike to explore, but the entrance parking lot isn’t suitable for passing through at speed
• Chenggong Township: A hub for Taitung’s famous mahi-mahi and sailfish cuisine; I recommend having lunch here
• Sansiantai: If time permits, riding into the Sansiantai peninsula offers a rare coastal scenery experience

Challenges of the Coastal Section:

The climbs on Provincial Highway 11 aren’t long, but they’re frequent—every few kilometers there’s an undulation, and the cumulative elevation gain is considerable. The bigger challenge is the afternoon south wind; when heading north from the Taitung direction, you’re usually riding into a headwind.

My coping strategies:

• Take a longer rest in Chenggong at noon (about 45 minutes) to keep my body off the road during the hottest hours
• Fully relax the legs on descents, avoiding unnecessary pedaling
• When energy runs low in the latter part, switch to a pacing method of “rest 30 seconds for every 100 pedal strokes”

Overnight Stay: The Local Life Feel of Yuli

Yuli is the town that left the deepest impression on me throughout the entire journey—not because of any particular attraction, but because it preserves the most authentic sense of everyday life of a small Taiwanese town.

I stayed at a bed-and-breakfast run by a local. The owner took me out for dinner to try Yuli’s local specialty—Yuli noodles. Yuli noodles are a noodle dish unique to Hualien, stir-fried with lard, served in a clear pork bone broth. The flavor isn’t flashy, but it’s extremely satisfying. After riding 170 kilometers, sitting on a plastic chair at a roadside stall and eating a steaming bowl of Yuli noodles was probably the happiest moment of that day.

Practical Tips

• Traffic on the Hualien–Taitung routes can be heavy; check for construction sections on Provincial Highway 11 before departing
• For the two-day route, don’t budget every day’s riding to complete exhaustion—reserve 20 percent for contingencies
• Sun protection is crucial on the coastal section; UV rays reflected off the sea surface are far stronger than on regular roads
• The rift valley section of Provincial Highway 9 has bike-friendly facilities along the entire route; some sections of Provincial Highway 11 have faster traffic flow, so stay extra alert
• Staying overnight in Yuli or Fuli offers a richer sense of eastern Taiwan life than staying in larger cities

Conclusion

The two-day, one-night ride around Hualien and Taitung is the route I’ve ridden that best makes you “remember Taiwan.” The tranquility of the rift valley and the grandeur of the coast leave distinctly different memories in the body, but both speak to the kindness and beauty of this land.

Next time, I want to take four days and ride slowly, giving myself more time at every place worth stopping. What’s the hurry? Hualien and Taitung will be waiting.

Related Reading

• Hualien–Taitung Rift Valley Cycling Tour: Taiwan’s Most Magnificent Long-Distance Riding Route
• Hualien–Taitung Rift Valley Route: A Deep Cycling Journey Through Valley Scenery from Hualien to Taitung
• Hualien–Taitung Rift Valley Cycling Route: A Ride Along Provincial Highway 9 Amid Rice Waves and Mountains
• In-Depth Guide to the Hualien–Taitung Rift Valley Cycling Path: Taiwan’s Best Route for Long-Distance Riding