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Taiwan Round-Island Route Planning: Clockwise vs Counter-Clockwise

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Taiwan Round-Island Route Planning: Clockwise vs Counter-Clockwise

Cycling around Taiwan is a rite of passage for Taiwanese riders, covering roughly 920-1,000 km (depending on the route) and typically taking 7-12 days to complete. But the first big question before you set off is: clockwise (down the west coast, up the east coast) or counter-clockwise (down the east coast, up the west coast)?

Wind Direction: The Most Critical Factor

Taiwan’s wind direction shifts noticeably with the seasons, and this should be your primary consideration when choosing a direction:

Season Prevailing Wind Recommended Direction Reason
Spring (Mar-May) South to southwest wind Counter-clockwise Tailwind heading south on the east coast
Summer (Jun-Aug) Southwest wind Either Wind is variable; watch for typhoons
Autumn (Sep-Nov) Northeast monsoon strengthening Clockwise Tailwind heading south on the west coast
Winter (Dec-Feb) Strong northeast monsoon Clockwise Avoids headwinds on the east coast

Key takeaway: Go clockwise in autumn/winter, counter-clockwise in spring, and decide based on the forecast in summer.

Road Conditions and Traffic Analysis

West Coast (Provincial Highway 1 / Highway 17)

  • Road surface quality: Generally good, with bike/scooter lanes on most sections
  • Traffic volume: Heavy, especially through the industrial zones between Hsinchu and Changhua
  • Supply convenience: Excellent, with a high density of convenience stores
  • Character: Mostly flat, with more commercial and industrial areas

East Coast (Provincial Highway 9 / Highway 11)

  • Road surface quality: Good, though some sections carry rockfall risk
  • Traffic volume: Light, making for a better riding experience
  • Supply convenience: Fewer supply points along the Nanhui section and parts of the Hualien-Taitung area
  • Character: Spectacular scenery, where mountains meet the sea

Clockwise Route (West Down, East Up): Detailed Plan

Suited to autumn and winter, here’s a classic 9-day itinerary:

Day Route Distance Elevation Gain Difficulty
Day 1 Taipei → Hsinchu 95km 300m ★★☆
Day 2 Hsinchu → Taichung 105km 250m ★★☆
Day 3 Taichung → Chiayi 100km 200m ★★☆
Day 4 Chiayi → Kaohsiung 110km 150m ★★☆
Day 5 Kaohsiung → Hengchun 95km 300m ★★☆
Day 6 Hengchun → Taitung (Nanhui) 115km 800m ★★★★
Day 7 Taitung → Yuli 90km 400m ★★★
Day 8 Yuli → Hualien 95km 350m ★★★
Day 9 Hualien → Taipei (Suhua/Beiyi) 130km 1,200m ★★★★★

Counter-Clockwise Route (East Down, West Up): Detailed Plan

Suited to spring, here’s a 9-day itinerary:

Day Route Distance Elevation Gain Difficulty
Day 1 Taipei → Yilan (Beiyi) 85km 900m ★★★★
Day 2 Yilan → Hualien (Suhua) 110km 800m ★★★★
Day 3 Hualien → Yuli 95km 350m ★★★
Day 4 Yuli → Taitung 90km 400m ★★★
Day 5 Taitung → Hengchun (Nanhui) 115km 800m ★★★★
Day 6 Hengchun → Kaohsiung 95km 300m ★★☆
Day 7 Kaohsiung → Tainan 75km 100m ★☆☆
Day 8 Tainan → Changhua 105km 150m ★★☆
Day 9 Changhua → Taipei 180km 400m ★★★★

Nanhui Highway: The Critical Segment of the Loop

Whichever direction you choose, the Nanhui Highway (Fengang → Taitung, or the reverse) is one of the most challenging sections of the entire loop:

  • Total distance: Approximately 95-100 km
  • Highest point: Shouka (elevation approximately 460m)
  • Supply warning: There are almost no supply points along the roughly 50 km between Fengang and Dawu
  • Recommendation: Stock up thoroughly in Fengang, and carry enough water and food

Safety Tips for the Suhua Highway

The Suhua Highway is the most dangerous section of the round-island route:

  • After the Suhua Improvement opened: Most vehicles now use the Suhua Improvement tunnels, greatly reducing traffic on the old Suhua road
  • Recommended route: Take the old Suhua road (Highway 9D) for better scenery and less traffic
  • Precautions:
    • Watch for rockfall warnings
    • Turn on lights and wear a reflective vest inside tunnels
    • Avoid riding through in rainy weather
    • Depart early in the morning to avoid afternoon thunderstorms

Accommodation and Supply Planning

Accommodation Options

  • Round-island cyclist guesthouses: Many towns have guesthouses dedicated to hosting round-island cyclists
  • Giant Travel: Offers complete round-island package tours
  • Hostels: Budget-friendly, usually with space to store bikes
  • Budget reference: NT$500-1,500 per night (double rooms roughly NT$1,200-2,500)

Daily Supply Recommendations

  • Breakfast: Eat well before departure, focusing on carbohydrates
  • On the road: Refuel every 30-40 km
  • Carry: At least 2 water bottles, energy gels, salt tablets
  • Lunch: Local street food, to replenish protein

Equipment Checklist

Essential gear for the round-island trip:

  • Bike: Check gears, brakes, and tire condition
  • Repair tools: 2x spare inner tubes, patch kit, pump, multi-tool
  • Safety gear: Front and rear lights, reflective vest, helmet
  • Clothing: 3x moisture-wicking jerseys, 2x cycling shorts, windbreaker, rain jacket, arm sleeves
  • Electronics: Bike computer/phone, 2x power banks
  • Personal items: Sunscreen, medication, ID card, health insurance card

Conclusion

There is no single “correct direction” for riding around Taiwan — what matters is choosing what suits your season, fitness, and personal preference. Whether clockwise or counter-clockwise, this beautiful island will reveal its charm from a different angle each way. Get out there — your round-island story is waiting to be written.

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