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The Dangerous Sections of a Round-Taiwan Trip: A Complete Safety Riding Guide to the Suhua Highway and Southern Cross-Island Highway

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The Dangerous Sections of a Round-Taiwan Trip: A Complete Safety Riding Guide to the Suhua Highway and Southern Cross-Island Highway

Introduction

The Suhua Highway runs about 118 km, and the Southern Cross-Island Highway (Provincial Highway 9, from Fengang to Taitung) runs about 106 km. These two sections are widely recognized as the most challenging parts of a round-Taiwan cycling route, and the ones that demand the most careful preparation. Beauty and danger coexist here: the cliffside ocean views of the Suhua Highway have captivated countless photographers, while the mountain ridgeline of the Southern Cross-Island Highway divides Taitung and Pingtung into two starkly different worlds. Precisely because of this, both sections demand a heightened sense of safety awareness from riders.

The Suhua Highway: A Cycling Trial Along the Cliffs

Analysis of Danger Factors

The main risks on the Suhua Highway (Provincial Highway 9, from Su-ao to Hualien) come from the following areas:

Risk Type Main Section Description
Falling rocks South of Renqing Tunnel, Chongde to Hualien Unstable geology; falling rocks are frequent after typhoons or heavy rain
Tunnel visibility Various tunnel sections The old Suhua tunnels have poor lighting, and airflow is strong when large vehicles pass
Narrow shoulders Cliffside curve sections Some sections have shoulders less than 50 cm wide
Strong wind Heren and Hezhong sections Crosswinds along Taiwan’s eastern coast can reach 10 to 15 m/s
Rear-end collisions with large vehicles Entire route Gravel trucks and large trailers pass at high speed; if a rider doesn’t keep far enough to the right, it becomes dangerous

Suhua Riding Recommendations

Timing: 7 AM to 10 AM is the safest riding window on the Suhua Highway. Visibility is good after sunrise, large-vehicle traffic hasn’t yet peaked, and crosswinds are weaker than in the afternoon. Avoid entering the Suhua Highway after 3 PM, since the angle of the setting sun can create visual blind spots on the shoulders of certain curves for oncoming traffic.

Gear requirements:

  • A cycling helmet is mandatory — non-negotiable
  • A flashing red tail light must be installed and kept on even during the day
  • A high-visibility reflective vest (fluorescent yellow or orange) is recommended
  • Inside tunnels: set your front light to its brightest mode

Alternative option: If you’d rather not ride the old Suhua route, you can take the Taiwan Railway (Hualien to Su-ao) with your bicycle and skip this section entirely. This is a completely reasonable choice and does not diminish the meaning of your round-Taiwan journey.

The Southern Cross-Island Highway: The Combined Challenge of Strong Winds and Long Climbs

Analysis of Danger Factors

The primary challenge of the Southern Cross-Island Highway (from Fengang to Taitung) is the triple compounding of elevation gain, strong crosswinds, and traffic.

  • The Fengang-to-Shoukah section (about 18 km): Climbs approximately 430 meters, and is the round-Taiwan route’s most notorious “big boss climb,” with full sun exposure and no shade the entire way
  • The Shoukah-to-Anshuo section: A long descent, but with strong crosswinds — high-speed descending in gusty conditions carries a risk of losing control
  • The Dawu-to-Taitung section: Road conditions are relatively good, but several narrow-shoulder sections before entering Taitung City require caution

Southern Cross-Island Riding Recommendations

How to ride the Shoukah climb: Don’t try to power through quickly. Climb slowly, at a pace where you can still hold a conversation. Stop every 5 km to hydrate and refuel, to avoid a mid-climb blood sugar crash. At the Shoukah Pass (elevation 431 meters), there’s a well-known photo spot, the “Shoukah Police Station,” which serves as a spiritual pit stop for every round-Taiwan rider.

Handling crosswinds: If the wind speed forecast for the day exceeds 8 m/s, it’s best to set out early and pass through in the low-wind hours of early morning. When riding in crosswinds, slow down, use the drops on your handlebars to reduce wind resistance, and on descents, brake lightly and steadily to maintain control — never brake hard and suddenly.

Weather Checks and Road Closure Information

Before riding the Suhua Highway or the Southern Cross-Island Highway, be sure to confirm the following:

  • Central Weather Administration forecast: Check the wind speed forecast for “northern Hualien County” and “eastern Taitung County”
  • Directorate General of Highways road conditions: https://www.thb.gov.tw, for real-time road closure information
  • Facebook groups: Members of the “Taiwan Round-Island Cycling” group often post real-time road condition updates
  • Whether the original Suhua Highway alignment is open: Since the Suhua Highway Improvement route opened, parts of the “original Suhua Highway” (the old route) can still be ridden, but you should confirm whether it’s temporarily closed

Practical Tips

  • Let people know your plans: Before entering the Suhua Highway or the Southern Cross-Island Highway, message your family with your expected passage time and destination city
  • Emergency contacts: The Hualien County Police Department (03-8233995) and the Taitung County Police Department (089-351490) are the first points of contact for riders in an emergency
  • Never ride the Suhua Highway at night: Lighting inside the Suhua tunnels is extremely poor at night; night riding is strictly discouraged unless you have a powerful front light and are riding with a group
  • Yield to large vehicles: Pull over onto the shoulder on the Suhua Highway to let gravel trucks or large trailers pass — don’t try to race them for time

Conclusion

The Suhua Highway and the Southern Cross-Island Highway are the toughest sections of a round-Taiwan trip, but they’re also the two most talked-about parts of any round-Taiwan story. The experience of crossing these sections — the ocean wind, the cliffs, the magnificent expanse of eastern Taiwan — is something no other section can replace. Respect it, prepare well, and go ride it. That stretch of road will stay with you for a lifetime.

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