Cycling the East Rift Valley in Taitung: A Slow-Paced Journey Along the Huadong Section with Scenic Stops

Introduction

If there is only one stretch of road on a Taiwan round-island trip where I would be willing to stay an extra two days, it would definitely be the Taitung Rift Valley. Heading north from Taitung City, Provincial Highway 9 cuts across the Beinan River plain and enters the valley, with the Central Mountain Range on the left and the Coastal Mountain Range on the right, and in between lies Taiwan’s largest expanse of rice paddies. This stretch has neither the dramatic cliffside ocean views nor the tension of urban sections—only a serene beauty that unconsciously makes you drop your speed to below 15 km/h.

Overview of the Taitung Rift Valley Cycling Route

The Huadong section mainly follows Provincial Highway 9, heading north from Taitung City to Hualien City, approximately 180 km in total. If riding the full length, it is recommended to split it over two days:

The entire stretch has a cumulative elevation gain of about 500 to 700 meters, making it the flattest section of any round-island route in Taiwan—perfect for slowing down and taking in the scenery.

Chishang: The Rice-Farming Town That Makes You Glad to Stop

Chishang is Taiwan’s most famous rice-producing area, and the reputation of “Chishang bento” has spread across the island. But what truly captivates cyclists are the several farm roads within Chishang—“Brown Boulevard” and “Paradise Road.”

Brown Boulevard: This straight farm road running through the middle of rice paddies is a must-visit spot in Chishang, flanked by vast flooded fields with distant mountains as a backdrop. The golden rice fields during the autumn harvest season (October to November) are the most iconic scene, while the tender green seedlings of spring are equally beautiful. It is recommended to go between 6:00 and 8:00 AM, when there are fewer visitors and the light is softer.

The “Chishang Bento Museum” and the cluster of bento shops in town are another reason to stop. Spending NT$100 to NT$130 on a Chishang bento made with organic rice is one of the best value-for-money dining experiences on a round-island trip.

Fuli Liushishan: A Hidden Detour in the Valley

Turning off at Fuli onto County Road 193, you can climb to Liushishan at an elevation of about 800 meters. This place is famous for its daylily flowers—from August to September each year, the entire hillside blooms with orange-yellow daylilies, making it one of Taiwan’s representative floral landscapes.

The climb gains about 400 meters, and while the road winds, the pavement is in good condition. It is also worth visiting outside the blooming season, as the views from the ridgeline allow you to overlook both the Central Mountain Range and the Coastal Mountain Range, with the entire valley spread out before you.

Ruisui: A Waypoint of Hot Springs and Ranches

Ruisui is the most complete service hub in the middle section of the valley.

Ruisui Ranch: The most famous source of dairy products in Hualien County, offering fresh milk, cheese, and ice cream. After riding dozens of kilometers, standing beside the ranch and drinking a bottle of cold fresh milk is one of the most luxurious pleasures of riding through the valley.

Ruisui Hot Springs: These are sodium bicarbonate springs, highly beneficial for muscle recovery. If staying overnight in Ruisui, you can choose a bed-and-breakfast with hot spring facilities to fully release the day’s riding fatigue in the warm water.

Liyu Lake: The Last Surprise Before Entering Hualien

Heading north from Yuli and before entering Shoufeng Township in Hualien, Liyu Lake is the final major attraction on the valley section. This natural lake covers about 80 hectares and is surrounded by a complete lakeside cycling path (about 5 km), making it ideal for a leisurely loop as a cool-down ride after completing the long valley journey.

The lake surface reflects Mugua Mountain, and a thin mist can sometimes be seen in the early morning. It is one of the few natural lakes in Taiwan that you can experience up close while cycling.

Pacing Recommendations for Riding the Valley

The Huadong Rift Valley section should not be ridden with a “complete the mileage” mindset, but rather with the mindset of “truly seeing this stretch of road.” Here are a few ways to help you slow down:

• Don’t set an arrival time: Accommodation options are plentiful along this section, and staying an extra day in Chishang or Ruisui won’t affect your overall round-island plan
• Take farm roads instead of the provincial highway: Many farm roads run parallel to Provincial Highway 9 on both sides, keeping you away from large vehicles and closer to the rice paddies
• Stop at a farmhouse or bed-and-breakfast for lunch: Many farms in the valley offer simple meals—enjoy a countryside lunch cooked with local ingredients
• Ride the final 20 km in the evening: The light in the valley is most beautiful at sunset, when the Central Mountain Range is painted orange-red, creating a striking contrast with the green of the rice fields

Practical Tips

• Typhoon season caution: The valley plain is a flood zone during typhoons; riding is strictly prohibited when a typhoon warning is in effect
• Wildlife: The Taitung Rift Valley is home to wild monkey troops and abundant birdlife; consider bringing a lightweight pair of binoculars
• Farm road etiquette: When entering farm roads in agricultural areas, keep your speed low, do not step into the rice paddies, and respect the farmers’ working space
• Book Hualien City accommodation early: During Hualien’s peak tourist season (July–September), lodging is extremely tight—book at least two weeks in advance before arriving in Hualien from the valley section

Conclusion

The Huadong Rift Valley section is the very soul of the entire Taiwan round-island journey. The western plains teach you how to ride, the east coast lets you feel grandeur, and the valley teaches you to slow down. Stop your bike in the rice fields, let the breeze carry the scent of rice straw past you, and watch the distant mountains stand quietly—at this moment, no reason is needed, only the quiet appreciation.

Related Reading

• Huadong Rift Valley Cycling Route: A Journey Along Provincial Highway 9 Amid Rice Waves and Mountains
• Huadong Rift Valley Route: An In-Depth Cycling Tour of Valley Scenery from Hualien to Taitung
• Provincial Highway 9 Huadong Rift Valley: Between Serenity and Speed, Finding the Purest Meaning of Cycling
• Huadong Rift Valley: The Most Beautiful Cycling Section from Hualien to Taitung