Crossing Taiwan: A 3-Day, 2-Night Mountain Road Challenge from Taipei to Taitung

“Three days to ride to Taitung?”

That’s what everyone asked when they heard the plan. Yes, from Taipei to Taitung, taking the Northern Cross-Island Highway, over Wuling, and finally down the coast to Taitung. Not the fastest route, but the most beautiful one.

This was the ride I planned the longest, executed most seriously, and gained the most from.

Route Planning

Overall Route Design

Taipei (Muzha) → Guishan (Northern Cross-Island Highway entrance) → Fuxing → Baling → Mingchi → Yilan → Su’ao → Suhua Highway → Hualien → Taitung

Total: Approximately 410 kilometers, approximately 4,800 meters of elevation gain

Why Not Take the Shortest Route

The shortest straight-line distance from Taipei to Taitung might be via the Southern Cross-Island Highway, but that mountain road is closed; or by plane, but that would defeat the purpose.

My reasons for choosing the Northern Cross-Island + Suhua route:

• The Northern Cross-Island Highway is one of Taiwan’s most beautiful mountain roads
• Suhua is the most spectacular coastal section
• This route itself is a poem

Day 1: Crossing the Northern Cross-Island Highway from Taipei to Yilan (120 kilometers)

Departing at 5 AM

Departing from Muzha, Taipei, the sky was still dark. The first section toward Guishan was urban commuting roads—boring but necessary.

After Guishan, the Northern Cross-Island Highway officially began.

The Charm of the Northern Cross-Island Highway

Provincial Highway 7, the Northern Cross-Island Highway, spans 115 kilometers in total, crossing the mountainous terrain of northern Taiwan.

The Northern Cross-Island Highway in the morning is at its most beautiful:

• Morning mist flows through the valleys
• Sunlight slants across the mountain peaks, creating dramatic lighting
• The sound of streams accompanies the entire ride

Fuxing (Jiaobanshan) is the first resupply point, and the Atayal cultural exhibition there is worth a 20-minute stop.

Baling’s Peaches

In early June, Baling’s peaches are in peak season. The peaches at roadside stalls, freshly picked, burst with juice at the first bite.

Travel tip: Seasonal agricultural products along Taiwan’s mountain roads are the most beautiful resupply on a cycling journey. Peaches, pears, and citrus fruits all await you in different seasons.

Mingchi: A Hidden Gem in the Mist

Mingchi, on Provincial Highway 7A, is a high-mountain lake near the highest point of the Northern Cross-Island Highway, at an elevation of approximately 1,700 meters.

When I arrived at Mingchi, the mist happened to be swirling around the lake’s surface, as if I had stepped into a fairyland. Resting there for 30 minutes and drinking a cup of hot tea was one of the most enjoyable moments of the entire trip.

Descending into Yilan

After Mingchi, there was a long descent. Dropping from 1,700 meters down to the Yilan Plain, the view suddenly shifted from mountains to the vast Lanyang Plain, with the magnificent silhouette of the Xueshan Range behind.

Day 1 completion time: Approximately 8 hours 30 minutes after departure

Day 2: Yilan to Hualien (Suhua Highway, 130 kilometers)

The Legend of Suhua

The Suhua Highway is Taiwan’s most controversial road section—safety concerns and breathtaking beauty coexist.

Things to note when cycling the Suhua:

• Check the weather (official Suhua Highway management information)
• Departure time (avoid peak hours for large vehicles)
• Carry ample supplies (resupply points are scarce along the way)
• Stay to the right on curves

Suhua’s Most Spectacular Moment

The section from Su’ao toward Qingshui Cliff is the most spectacular highway scenery I have seen in Taiwan:

The road hugs the cliff face tightly, with the Pacific Ocean dropping vertically on the right. The sound of waves crashing against the rock walls drifts up from afar, carrying a sense of eternal rhythm.

Qingshui Cliff: A 240-meter-high vertical cliff plunging straight into the Pacific Ocean, with no protection whatsoever—pure natural force. Upon reaching this point, I was compelled to stop and admire it.

The Heping Industrial Zone Interlude

Between Heping and Taroko, the Suhua improvement section has been converted to tunnels. When cycling through, be aware of poor ventilation—it’s advisable to pass through quickly or wait for off-peak times.

Arriving in Hualien

Entering downtown Hualien brought a different feeling—from the tranquility between mountains and sea, suddenly into the hustle and bustle of the city.

That evening in Hualien, I rewarded my legs with a big bowl of stinky tofu at Gongzheng Baozi.

Day 2 completion time: Approximately 9 hours after departure

Day 3: Hualien to Taitung (Provincial Highway 11 Coastal Route, 160 kilometers)

A Tribute to Provincial Highway 11

Provincial Highway 11, the Huadong Coastal Highway, was the star of the final day.

Unlike the thrill of Suhua, Highway 11 is composed beauty—coastlines, terraced fields, indigenous villages, beaches, and奇特 rock formations.

Whale Watching? No, Eagle Watching!

While riding along Highway 11, I suddenly noticed large birds circling overhead.

I stopped to look—they were Taiwan’s endemic black kites (commonly known as eagles), soaring and hunting in large numbers above the seaside.

Those 20 minutes of eagle watching unexpectedly became one of the highlights of the entire trip.

The Touching Moment at the Duli Tribe

Passing by the Duli indigenous tribe, I saw several elderly Amis people sitting by their doorways enjoying the shade.

I stopped, gestured with my hands to ask if I could take a photo, and the elders smiled and gave me a thumbs up.

After taking the photo, as I turned to leave, one of the elders handed me a freshly picked guava, without saying a word, just smiling and waving.

I remember the taste of that guava very clearly.

Arriving in Taitung

At 4 PM, the Taitung city sign appeared before my eyes.

I stopped the bike and looked at the map on my phone: Taipei to Taitung, 3 days, completed.

No deliberate celebration—I found a restaurant, ordered a traditional Chishang lunch box, and ate it quietly.

Day 3 completion time: Approximately 10 hours after departure (including multiple stops)

Journey Overview

What Made This Trip Special

It wasn’t any single scenic spot or achievement, but the overall “experience of movement.”

Using your own legs to ride from one end of Taiwan to the other, experiencing the changes in terrain, shifts in climate, and differences in culture—this is an experience no other mode of transportation can provide.

The Hardest Moment

Day 2 on the Suhua, the pressure of large vehicles passing quickly from behind. Those few seconds of tension reminded me to treat the risks of road cycling with greater caution and humility.

The Most Beautiful Memories

Baling’s peaches, Mingchi’s mist, Suhua’s cliffs, and the Duli elder’s guava.

All were unexpected, and all were more precious than anything planned.

For Friends Who Want to Take on the Taiwan Crossing Challenge

Recommended fitness level:

• Ability to ride 100+ kilometers consecutively each day
• Climbing endurance (at least able to complete 2,000m+ of elevation gain in a single day)

Best seasons:

• April–June (late spring to early summer, avoiding typhoons and the plum rain season)
• September–November (after typhoon season, crisp autumn weather)

Safety reminders:

• Always check the weather and road conditions for the Suhua Highway
• Some sections of the Northern Cross-Island Highway have rockfall risk; be cautious in rainy weather

Mental preparation:
This island of Taiwan, from north to south, from mountains to sea, possesses astonishing diversity.

Crossing it by bike is the most profound way to know this land.

Related Reading

• Complete Guide to the Huadong Valley 220km Route: 3-Day, 2-Night Cycling Guide from Hualien to Taitung
• Southern Cross-Island Highway Cycling Challenge: An Epic Ride Across the Central Mountain Range
• Complete Suhua Highway Cycling Record: Taiwan’s Most Stunning Coastal Highway Experience
• Suhua Highway Alternative Route: An Inland Mountain Crossing from Yilan to Hualien